Thanks,
Chickencoop
Brad
The safest thing to do on a factory barrel or standard premium barrel is to shoot approximately 20 rounds following some shoot and clean method - 1 to 5 & then 2 to 10. Then shoot another 50 to 75 rounds. If your gun still fouls badly, then fire lap.
Fire lapping will most definitely push your throat forward, even with the finest grit. Clean your barrel very well before you start to ensure all the machining crud is out. Use Butches or Sweets to remove the fouling while you are breaking in the barrel.
DB - I am curious who manufactured your barrel and what caliber it is? If I were going to fire lap, Final Finish is the best way to go.
[This message has been edited by Zero Drift (edited 03-14-2002).]
I came very close to fire-lapping a new barrel recently, by after researching things a bit, I decided against it. The more standardized break-in procedures have proven sufficient, and that' been good enough for me.
AD
quote:
Originally posted by Chickencoop:
I just got a new rifle in .223 Remington. Could I fire lap the barrel by using fine grits and get the same results as in "breaking in the barrel"? I have never followed the present day method of shoot - clean etc. and have always had my rifles shoot well. Just wondering out loud.Thanks,
Chickencoop
David Tubb's "Final Finish" seems to make a lot of sense. He has a product called TMS or Throat Mainteance System that appears to be the answer to my question. This product contains very fine grits inbedded on bullets with long bearing surfaces. The idea is to progressively polish finer and finer. David says that this process will in no way harm a barrel. He uses this product to break in new handlapped barrels. I trust what he says and does when it comes to the shooting sports. I guess that this is not firelapping per se, but a new and innovative method of breaking in new barrels! I got this information on the following site: www.zediker.com Again thanks,
Chickencoop
It most definately will push your throat foreward. If you like a free bore go for it. I am not sure what the more critical factor is in your bore. It might be a nasty rough spot. If that is the case then this may work. On the down side the bullet will get a running start at the rifling after you firelap it. That will hurt accuracy, all else being equal. Another thing that come to mind is the possible sand blast effect on the crown. On the plus side you will be putting a taper in the bore. I guess the best of all worlds would be to shoot your grit bullets then set it back an re-crown.
Think of this....how many top bench rest shooters use this system? That should say something.
As for me, I'll spend the extra bucks for a good barrel from a good manufacturer and let them install it. I have learned to pay attention to the winners. I am equipped and capable of installing barrels myself. But, if the manufacturer screws it up then I send it back. They will usually make it right for free. You are often money ahead to buy quality once. I got a Kreiger Stainless Heavy match tube for my match Garand in .308 1:11 twist. I let them install it, paid the bucks and waited the wait. I could not be happier with it. Food for thought.
quote:
Originally posted by Chickencoop:
Thanks for all of the honest input.David Tubb's "Final Finish" seems to make a lot of sense. He has a product called TMS or Throat Mainteance System that appears to be the answer to my question. This product contains very fine grits inbedded on bullets with long bearing surfaces. The idea is to progressively polish finer and finer. David says that this process will in no way harm a barrel. He uses this product to break in new handlapped barrels. I trust what he says and does when it comes to the shooting sports. I guess that this is not firelapping per se, but a new and innovative method of breaking in new barrels! I got this information on the following site: www.zediker.com Again thanks,
Chickencoop
Take your time, invest in a good bore guide first thing. Clean from the breech, always.
I use this procedure on a new rifle:
First, a patch dripping with Hoppe's. One time through from breech to muzzle. Pull it off, withdraw, and wipe down the cleaning rod.
Then, dry patches, at least four--first two go through once only; last two, at least five strokes fore and aft.
Then, clean with Sweet's, following the instructions on the bottle. Patch dry, and clean off all residue.
Finally, oil the chamber and lug recesses, wipe totally dry. Run an oil patch down the bore, and patch out using 3-4 dry patches, about four strokes each.
The reason to oil the chamber and bore before firing, and after cleaning with Sweet's, is because Sweet's will remove absolutely all traces of lube and protectant from anything it touches. Cleanup afterward, and cleaning during firing, will be much easier if you do the oil-patch, then patch dry.