Instead of the usual forging of the original bolt handle, is it possible to cut a pie shaped notch big enough at the root of the handle to bend it over and weld it back as to allow enough clearance for standard scope mounting? I saw a pic the other day of a Mauser with a straight bolt handle that fit very low into the stock and the top of the bolt root looked like it had been done that way. Anyone done something like that? Thanks in advance.

Forging is a bad idea for several reasons; it is an old school method before TIG Welders. Doing as you suggest is certainly possible, but you end up with a very short handle, which is why, don't do that either .
Turn a new handle, saw off the old one, and weld on the new one. I did one yesterday.

I see that dpcd is being his normal, polite self. What he really wanted to say is that the original round knob is about as attractive as a horses - - - - - - - - hoof! Cut it off, throw it away and buy or make something a bit more aesthetically pleasing. There is no point in doing something half way if you are pouring that much time into it to begin with.

Horse's hoof! Wish I had thought of that. Of course, Speer is right. I am too polite.

This was what I was looking at. Looks like a standard bolt handle on this H&H.

quote:

Originally posted by Magnum Hunter1:

This was what I was looking at. Looks like a standard bolt handle on this H&H.

That Mauser would look real purdy with a tear drop bolt handle ! Betcha. Betcha huh? Betcha would.

1903 Turk done as you asked.
Don

Some original Mauser handles, especially British ones, have longer bolt handles and I always make mine 1/4 inch longer.

Exactly what I did to my 1909 bolt. Same handle, cut a wedge out, "gently bent" and then re-welded.

Speerchucker is right, tho...

Bolt handles should flow. They should look like they go from the knob to the bolt body with no interruption and at the same time they should be trim and balanced in appearance. They shouldn't look like emaciated tooth picks but they shouldn't look like something that was thought out by a pipe fitter either. Making good bolt handles is almost as hard as making good wrists in stocks. You very seldom see good ones but when they are right even a novice will pick it out of a group.

Don,
That was exactly what I was looking for. Did you weld any right above the ball or just shape from what was there?

Speerchucker you are right. I am just more forgiving of a bolt handle than I am a stock wrist.

Magnum Hunter 1. Yes, you can do bolt hnadles as you describe. Cut most of the way through, heat and bend the handle down at 90 degrees, weld in the notch, then bend the handle up to the desired angle. I have probably done a couple hundred handles this way and they end up being the right length (unlike a forged handle). The round knob on some Mausers come up a bit short in the aesthetics department but it is a decent handle. The original Oberndorf Mauser knob is quite an attractive knob (as are the Turkish actions) and I used it as my pattern when I set up to CNC a hundred handles for myself.
Cutting through and welding the notch leaves a nice, clean underside and allows you plenty of material on the toside for shaping.
Keep in mind, the handle, when viewed in relation to the bolt only, might look a little large and a little long, when it is in the receiver it will look more appropriate and when in the stock, it will look perfect. A handle which is too long will increase the possibility of binding but cutting and filling in the notch will yield a handle which is just the right length. Regards, Bill

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
Bolt handles should flow. They should look like they go from the knob to the bolt body with no interruption and at the same time they should be trim and balanced in appearance. They shouldn't look like emaciated tooth picks but they shouldn't look like something that was thought out by a pipe fitter either. Making good bolt handles is almost as hard as making good wrists in stocks. You very seldom see good ones but when they are right even a novice will pick it out of a group.

Good post.

quote:

Originally posted by Magnum Hunter1:
Don,
That was exactly what I was looking for. Did you weld any right above the ball or just shape from what was there?

No the Turk bolt already had that pear shape. I wouldn't bother with a round knob when you can get a talley for about $10.
Don

not sure how this was done, notch and weld or cut,flip and weld.

The Swedish turned down handles are factory made like that. How did they do it? Forged straight, machined, then turned down in a die. Not the crude hammer forging that custom gunsmiths used to do here.
No welding at all.

To alter one of the bent down handles to clear a low-mounted scope, one would heat and straighten it then cut it nearly though, heat and bend to 90 degrees, and fill the notch with weld then bend the handle to the desired angle. The alternative is, of course, to cut it off and weld on a new one. Regards, Bill.

I think a better alternative to forging:

quote:

Originally posted by Don Markey:




1903 Turk done as you asked.
Don

Beautiful, as always!

Here's a picture of the Czech mauser i bought at Holt's about a year ago.

I'd disagree about the round handle as, for me, form follows function.