http://www3.telus.net/drswebspace/700%20bolt%20sectioned.JPG
Pictures that Dennis Sorenson in Canada took. Thought it might be of interest.
Butch

Pretty simple and cost effective design.

Yes, a picture is worth more than a thousand words this time around. Thanks for the insight.

I've never heard of failure with it.......

I prefer the Savage design that actually allows one to change the head to another cartridge class.

Butch:

It is pretty sad that the bolt head is just presses on, no retaining pin threads etc. I have not asked David Kiff if his bolts are made of one piece of steel. Makes all those bolts I trued over the years seam kinda like a waste of time.
Longshot a/k/a Nat

The bolt head is brazed on, not just pressed. With that much surface area and virtually no load on the joint, it is for all practical purposes as good as a solid piece.

Better yet, the Savage bolt head "floats" on a large through-pin and is somewhat self-aligning during lockup.

Nat, they are one piece.
Butch

I’m always puzzled by the prejudice against joining metal parts together by brazing that some people seem to have.

Depending on the quality of the technique and type of joint, a brazed joint can end up being as strong (and in some cases stronger) than the parent materials being joined.

Just because an improperly brazed joint comes apart doesn’t mean that the “process†itself is an inferior or sub-standard way of joining metal parts.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick 0311:
I’m always puzzled by the prejudice against joining metal parts together by brazing that some people seem to have.

Depending on the quality of the technique and type of joint, a brazed joint can end up being as strong (and in some cases stronger) than the parent materials being joined.

Just because an improperly brazed joint comes apart doesn’t mean that the “process†itself is an inferior or sub-standard way of joining metal parts.

THE issues that occour most often are a flux/compound mis-match, wrong temperature
Insufficient/improper pre-braze cleaning
or simply using the wrong braze compound.

I've seen butt joined 0.050 wall stainless tubing TEAR along side a brazed joint.

I will not use the term "solder" when refering to what is actually Brazing, because about 3/4 of the people out there are mentally incapable of making the distinction between copper/silver
based metal joining and lead/tin/antimony/silver
(any combination of these) "Soft Solder" joining which also has it's proper place in metal joining.

I find myself using the coolest of the silver/copper materials (56%Ag, Cd-free) because it makes nearly invisible joints in the material I work with most often... Stainless steel.

As for torch brazing "contaminating the weld"? I have a one word answer for that... Incompetence.

If the welder is even remotely competent it can't happen.

The first thing to know about torch brazing is to use plenty of flux (usually boric Acid based)
And the second is to use a strongly "reducing"
flame (Oxygen rich) which is the opposite of what you want when gas welding steel, for that you use a carbonizing flame(Fuel Rich)

the most common error when brazing? using too small of a torch tip and that results in taking too long to heat the workpiece.

Proper technique? Lotta heat, get on and get out.

I'd guess the most likely method for remington to be using would be an oven process, rather than an RF-inductive and in either case it'd likely be done in Vacuum because that allows them to do it without flux and save effort
on cleanup.

AllanD

AlanD,

I agree...when someone says “soldering†I think allot of people picture a guy sitting there with a little soldering iron and a roll of solder.

Like you, I always make the distinction between welding, brazing, and soldering.

I think where Remington has had some problems is improper joint prep coupled with the machines that apply the brazing tape between the parts.