I have recently acquired two Myford Super 7 lathes at a ridiculous price of $600 for both , and both are in sound working order.

As I'm a newby to metalwork/machining etc, can you guys tell me if these machines would be adequate for profiling barrels, barrel threading etc.

Also, any good internet sites detailing machining procedures etc would be appreciated.

I guess the bug has bitten me hard, and I can't wait to get going on something.

What would a good 'starting project' be?

Any help/advice appreciated.

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Regards
Dave

[This message has been edited by DRB (edited 09-22-2001).]

well, the first thing you need to do is subscribe to the internet newsgroup rec.crafts.metalworking, it is like here in that it is a treasure trove of information.

I can't stress that strongly enough.

Now, here are a couple of the best links for lathes and stuff:

www.metalworking.com the BEST!

http://www.cartertools.com/ - this is more geared for mini lathes but a ton of good information to be had here too.

have fun!

Get a Turkish Mauser action they are cheap, $30-50! I known a lot of people don't like them but they are good to practice on. You can get an unturned blank from Brownells for not too much over $100, then get a laminated wood stock for about $100 and you're all set.
This way if by chance you have a little mishap you're not out too much. If you can find a take off barell that is a good way to get started to.

Dave,have been a lathe-operator for over 25 years now,just start whit a piece of cheep steel and turn it all the ways you can imaging, just to learn the behaving of the machine and the tools and to get the feeling in your fingers,important: you must feel the cutting of the tools.Don't start whit a barrel or something,especially not an action(hardened),to big a risk.You don't need a piece of expensive scrap.
Good luck whit your good deals.
Hugh.

Guys thanks for the info.

However, my question regarding particularly the barrel threading/profiling still remains.

I know my question sounds strange, but I am not in SA at the moment so I can't even have a look to check if the chuck has a 'hole' through it to fit a barrel through it, or if it has a gearbox etc.

Thanks in any event.

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Regards
Dave

A great starting point is a machine shop class at your local community college. I have three semesters at mine. I learned a lot there. Had access to some wonderfull machines. I made lots of great gun projects. Also got a ban on gunsmithing enacted but, that is another story. : )

If the through hole isn't large enough, you can still chuck the muzzle and use a steady rest on the other end to cut threads or to do chambering.

DRB,

Do you have any idea how big these machines are? I can tell you more if I have an idea of the swing and the distance between centers.

Regardless, if you are full length contouring a barrel I would strongly recommend that you use a follow rest to support the barrel directly opposite the tool and reduce work piece vibration and chatter. Threading is a different story. It will be best if the barrel will fit through the headstock spindle bore. Support the barel between the chuck and tailstock center maintain the minimum distance that you can. Again I recommend using a follow rest to support the work. Also, threading will require time as you should limit your cuts to around 0.003" - 0.005".

You can try to thread the way MarkWhite suggests if the barrel will not fit through the spindle bore if you have a sufficient center distance on your machines. You will threading an overhung barrel so it will be difficult even if you use a follow rest. By difficult I mean the barrel may deflect and climb on top of the tool which is most often
a very bad thing.

Hope this helps.

Todd E

Todd E,

These are not big machines, and the overall length is approximately 46".

I understand the lathe can turn a maximum diameter of 7" over the bed and 10" by 1.5" thick in the gap; between centers they can handle material up to 20" in length, or a little more if you allow the tailstock to overhang the end of the bed.

I'm certainly getting the idea that I will need to get into using some scraps and trying to turn it in all ways imaginable, as HD352802 mentioned.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating!

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Regards
Dave

Dave,

It is a certainty that you will not be able to slide a rifle barrel through the headstock spindle ID. With 20" distance between centers you will be limited to about a 20" - 22" barrel most likely. Anyway, you should be able to cut threads using a steady rest, but it will not be easy and your cuts will have to be very light (0.002" - 0.003").

Contouring my be a bit difficult as you will most likely be stuck using a steady rest, which will be placed somewhere in the mid span of the barrel so you will only be able to contour say 1/2 = 3/4 of the barrel. You will then need to resetup the steady rest on a contoured portion of the barrel and then finish the rough section blending the two sections together.

I agree though get a bunch of scrap steel and go at it. Also, you should check the tightness of the gibbs. I an not at all familiar with a Myford lathe so I will not try and explain how to do this, but if the gibbs are worn/loose the accuracy will be bad. Also, the ways if worn or damaged will affect the machines accuracy. The good news is that both can be fixed (gibbs relatively cheap, hard chroming and grinding of ways very expensive).

Good luck and good turning/boring.

Todd E