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Savage 340

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04 March 2014, 06:38
thecanadian
Savage 340
Since it was one of those rare days above 0, I thought that I would hit the range today. While I was shooting, something went seriously wrong. The bolt handle was not moving the bolt to unlock the lugs. I took it home and hand to manually rotate the bolt to remove it. I Took the bolt apart and found that the bolt handle/sleeve was no longer firmly connected to the bolt! What are my options here? Do I have to order a new piece, or is there a way I can epoxy the piece back on?




"though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression."

---Thomas Jefferson
04 March 2014, 08:55
dpcd
Your splines are gone and glue won't be safe; you want that bolt to rotate. Weld or braze it back on.
04 March 2014, 16:57
TCLouis
Looks like a friend that can weld is a friend indeed.

Couple of small tac welds around that could be ground off if need be would provide the strength.

Make sure of bolt orientation location before BEFORE applying this semi permanent remedy.



Don't limit your challenges . . .
Challenge your limits


05 March 2014, 04:35
gzig5
Should be a pretty easy job to weld or braze together. Whoever does it, needs to make sure the handle is timed correctly. Does that hole in the spline area match with one on the handle?
05 March 2014, 06:41
thecanadian
Well, I have it all set up and ready to go. My brother is coming up tomorrow with the welder to get the job done.


"though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression."

---Thomas Jefferson
12 March 2014, 10:18
thecanadian
<<Update>>

Very frustrated at this point. I made 4 spot welds around the the handle and filed down the excess. In all about 1.5 hours of work. Every thing seemed to time out well and I was a happy camper until I went to the range today. I shot the rifle about 10 times before the welds broke... Back to square one. Would a silver solder or braze get down into the joint and work better, or should I just pay to get it tig welded?


"though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression."

---Thomas Jefferson
12 March 2014, 20:36
dpcd
Looks like you have very little under cut on the handle and when you filed down the tack welds, there went your strength. Remember, your cocking cam piece you are welding to has a certain amount of carbon it, to harden it, so welding on it needs to be done by someone who knows how. Brazing will work, but will also heat up your cocking cam. I would undercut the handle to give more weld area and pre-heat. Others might do it differently but I have welded a lot of bolt handles on, none on a 340 though. TIG welding would be best. What kind of welder did you use?
13 March 2014, 07:53
thecanadian
dpcd

I was using a 115volt cambell welder. I have made the decision to send it out and get the thing tig welded on. I have come to the conclusion that this is one project better left to more experienced hands. I don't want to be out hunting and have to worry if my welds are going to hold.


"though the will of the majority is in all cases to prevail, that will to be rightful must be reasonable; that the minority possess their equal rights, which equal law must protect, and to violate would be oppression."

---Thomas Jefferson