I am considering a skeleton grip cap on an upcoming project. I am going to do the checkering and the final finishing of the stock. How does one go about doing the checkering in the middle of the grip cap? Can a beginner be semi successfull?

I usually, in fact always, do it finer than the other checkering, and normally at 32 lpi. I have done them with a border around the edge, and cut them all the way to the edge. I once did a point pattern and it was a PITA, I had to match top and bottom or it would have looked goofy. They are really not hard to do and quick for that matter. I would strongly suggest a border. Use a divider and scroll it around the wood to set an equal margin. Cut the border with a veiner, lay out your master lines at the center of the grip and go to it.

Of course fitting the skeleton grip cap is a bugger. That and Chic informed me of such after I'd mentioned to him incorporating one on the first stock I finished. Well, I still haven't checkered it

Paul,
I am not going to fit it just checker it. I not that brave!

Customstox,
Can I just pull the cap off and checker it all the way across with no border or do you leave the cap in while checkering?

You can take the cap off and should when you checker. The reason I prefer the border is that I like to see the wood of the border coming right up flush with the metal. The checkered part will have wood that is below the metal because of the wood removed by checkering. It still looks good and would be a simpler way to begin.

I will have the stock that is exposed under the skeleton grip cap checkered on my 404 Jefferys

I outline it a little differently. I use some masking tape across the area to be checkered, lift the grip slightly and outline it with a sharp pencil that I turned in the lathe; just the wood, and leave a little shoulder you can butt against the inside of the grip cap. Sounds confusing but it leaves a nice even border without the cahance of your scriber slipping. I then incise it with an Exacto knife for the prelim to using the veiner.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:


I will have the stock that is exposed under the skeleton grip cap checkered on my 404 Jefferys

And before you even think of getting started, get that bench cleaned off! It looks like mine.

quote:

Originally posted by ElCaballero:
I am considering a skeleton grip cap on an upcoming project. I am going to do the checkering and the final finishing of the stock. How does one go about doing the checkering in the middle of the grip cap? Can a beginner be semi successfull?

Thought you might like to see this one, we had Gary Goudy do this on a customers rifle, at 32 lpi.

You can make a grip cap inset out out a piece of the same or simmilar wood as the stock. This makes fitting easier. Make the inset piece tapered such that you can tap it into the grip cap frame to make the inlettig tight. Once you have it right you can cut the bottom flush with the grip cap. Glue it to the stock. Put release agent on the grip cap frame. Install the screws. Let it dry. Trim the protruding part. If you want to checker it leave the wood a little proud. I checker them without a border, it is much easiar. If you make the wood flush and checker it, the checkering will look too low. Best part about this system is you have the oppertunity for do-overs. Nobody will nottice that the grain does not match. If you checker it the difference will be near impossible to see. You can also inset other woods. I have used ebony; I thought it looked nice.

Damn Kobe!!
I thought I had the only bench that looked like that! You could swap our benches (at least today) and probably find everything in the same place

JIM & JIM,

You have made my day. My bench is about the same right now, only becuase I cleaned it, lol.

Thank you all for the replies and the pictures of some amazing work! I am going ahead with this. Talked to the stock maker this morning and told him what I wanted. I will order some more checkering tools and keep practicing.

I see I mistakenly complimented Jim Kobe on the condition of his bench and the original post was from Rusty. I must direct my admiration to Rusty and just hope J.K. has a bench that resembles ours!!

A quick question for those who know,

Is there much difference in the difficulty inletting either of the two designs shown in this thread? I'm going to try one for the first time and am wondering which I should go with or if it matters much.

Thanks in advance,

Dan

Stay with the curved inside line for the first one. Any time you have tight curves in the design of the cap you will have more problems in inletting and checkering. I leave about 1/16 inch border inside to show on the checkering. Try not to crush the wood too much with the inletting. Hope this helps. Les

quote:

Originally posted by WaffenfabrikHein:

quote:

Originally posted by ElCaballero:
I am considering a skeleton grip cap on an upcoming project. I am going to do the checkering and the final finishing of the stock. How does one go about doing the checkering in the middle of the grip cap? Can a beginner be semi successfull?

Thought you might like to see this one, we had Gary Goudy do this on a customers rifle, at 32 lpi.

Every time I see stuff like this it makes me want to try it.....I screw up a dozen and finally get a decent one.

My compliments to the artist...that's beautiful work!!!

I avoided those "pointy" caps for a long time and found that once I did one......it was no more difficult than the other style.