6.5x55 project again

17 June 2001, 10:37

John Frazer

Thought it seemed appropriate to move this topic over to this forum.

I've pretty much decided to convert my VZ-24 .270 to a 6.5x55. (My brilliant rationale is that this keeps the dies, bullets and half-boxes of ammo from my old Swede from going to waste. Needless to say I will have to go buy another .270 to keep all those dies and bullets from languishing, but I have my eye on a CZ 550.)

The goal is to have fun and learn a thing or two while producing a rifle suitable for utility use in the whitetail woods. I can't justify spending a fortune on this so I would like to use basic, functional, off-the-shelf parts.

I will use a pre-threaded, short-chambered barrel--either the Adams & Bennett F34 or the Shilen #3 depending on how flush my checkbook is looking when I get around to this. I will cut and crown the barrel at 22" (though I may start at 23" in case I need a "do-over"). I will then need to restock it.

Questions:

1. How feasible is this as a do-it-yourself job for someone who at least feels reasonably comfortable, say, working on his own brakes as long as he has a good manual to follow along with? Any special pitfalls to watch out for?

2. Are there any particular problems to watch out for in using a run-of-the-mill aftermarket stock such as the Bell & Carlson Carbelite? How well will the barrel fit their channel or what will I need to do to make it work?

3. Since the barrels come in the white, what type of finish would this group recommend? Does one cold blue process stand out, or should I look at some of the spray-on or bake-on paints or other finishes?

4. The rifle currently has a safety that looks like the Precise Metalsmithing side-swing model. I don't like it because it doesn't lock in the "on" position very positively. I am thinking of getting another bolt shroud and doing it differently--how is the Timney "Buehler-style" low safety in this regard? Any other suggestions?

18 June 2001, 01:21

Bakes

John
Why don't you keep the VZ24 as a .270 and buy a cheap M96 or M38 action to make into the 6.5x55.
Bakes

18 June 2001, 03:21

<Hubie>

quote:
Originally posted by John Frazer:
1. How feasible is this as a do-it-yourself job for someone who at least feels reasonably comfortable, say, working on his own brakes as long as he has a good manual to follow along with? Any special pitfalls to watch out for?
While you can do this, I would not recommend it unless you have access to a lathe. Odds are, you're gonna have to make some ajustments. The threaded portion of the bbl needs to be a couple thou LONGER than the distance from the receiver face to the inner torque shoulder. Unless you get just dead lucky, this ain't gonna happen. Assuming your going to finish ream the chamber by hand, there is one other "gotcha", that I just ran into (VZ24/.30-06 A&B bbl) The "short chamber" may be TOO short to successfully ream by hand, without "egging" the chamber. (I've just learned this little lesson!)

3. Since the barrels come in the white, what type of finish would this group recommend? Does one cold blue process stand out, or should I look at some of the spray-on or bake-on paints or other finishes?
I have had reasonable success with Brownell's Oxpho blue, applying it link a "hot water blue", but don't really think it's very good for complete blue job. Excellent for touch up, though. I recently tried Brownells Dicropan M, with excellent results on the small parts-not so good on the bbl/reciever. I guess my technique needs some improvement.
4. how is the Timney "Buehler-style" low safety in this regard? Any other suggestions?

Easy to install, but not "drop-in". Never had one I didn't have to do some minor fitting.

General comments: What you're contemplating can be done, but unless you plan to do several, or like me, it's a hobby you enjoy, it'd be cheaper in the long run to let a 'smith do it.

I like the A&B bbls -for hunting rifles- consider them to be good value for the money. With careful installation, I've only had one that would not do at least MOA. They are not the best choice for a lightweight, as even the F34 profile is a bit heavy.

Feel free to email me at hatkin@lcc.net if you have specific questions.

18 June 2001, 04:30

Bill Leeper

I have had little to do with short chambered barrels but those I have used have been OK. The Bell& Carlson stocks I have always considered to be a bit homely but they can work alright. The Buehler safeties work well. Similar safeties that work on the opposite side of the bolt do not work as well and do not lock the bolt effectively.
If the parts are well polished a gunsmith may blue them for you for a reduced fee. If he is like me he will make sure that you know that the preparation work is 90% what determines the results. For a rough and ready outfit the bake on finishes from Brownells are fine. I prefer bluing though. You can get excellent results with Dicropan if you have a great deal of patience and are meticulous in the application. Regards, Bill.

18 June 2001, 10:16

John Frazer

I talked to a gunsmith at a show today who specializes in Mauser sporterizing. He had lots of 6.5s on M96 actions and even some .308s, which seems a tad high pressure for such an action. He also had M98 actions barreled for .300 Win. Mag. and such, and unbarreled actions (with turned down bolts & Buehler safeties). His price to rebarrel my action (parts & labor) would've been probably a hair less than my cost for parts & tools.

However, later in the day I stopped at a store and picked up a used Mark X in .30-06 -- at a price I couldn't refuse because it was less than the cost of a sporterized action, plus a barrel, plus a stock, let alone labor! So I'm putting aside the 6.5 project for now.

Thanks,

John