The Accurate Reloading Forums
Making the model 70 work
07 November 2007, 00:08
jsl3170Making the model 70 work
Awright. I'm going to be using a Classic Model 70 300 Win Mag as the basis for a 375 H&H project.The rifle is coming with a Burris 3-9 x 400 scope and has a factory 24" barrel. I'll sell those as well as the factory stock.The following is a list of items to consider; what am I missing?
1. tune and blueprint the action
2. new magazine box and follower (Blackburn)?
3. open the ejection port
4. Replace the extractor (Wisner or Williams?)
5. shorten the bolt stop
6. Have the rear of the feed rails milled parallel to the forward portion of the rails.
7. Have the portion of the action directly behind the box modified to insure proper trouble free loading and feeding.
8. 8x40 screws for QD mounts
9. remove block in rear of magazine
10. altering the ring
11. reduce bolt drag
Headspace and bolt locking lug engagement checked
12. check and re-cut receiver threads true
What else am I missing?
07 November 2007, 00:49
Westpacquote:
Originally posted by jsl3170:
Awright. I'm going to be using a Classic Model 70 300 Win Mag as the basis for a 375 H&H project.The rifle is coming with a Burris 3-9 x 400 scope and has a factory 24" barrel. I'll sell those as well as the factory stock.The following is a list of items to consider; what am I missing?
The new barrel.

Wonder where they found the extra tall rings for that rig?

Actually, item #1 covers the one before Item 12 and item 12. Pick your gunsmith and let him eyeball the action to see what he thinks it needs.
It's usually normal to square the receiver face, inspect and lap the lugs when fitting the new barrel. But check with your gunsmith to make sure that is how he sees it.
_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
07 November 2007, 00:52
jsl3170Right. sorry about the barrel. At this point undecided but likely to use something along the lines of a Pac-Nor. I would prefer 22" with a short forestock. My goal is to make it handy and fast pointing as far as that is concerned.
Regarding the rings I'll have to have a look when it arrives next week.
07 November 2007, 01:01
WestpacI was kidding about the extra tall rings, as a scope with a 400mm objective would require some gawd awful tall ones!

_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
07 November 2007, 01:18
ztreh400mm, that would make the scope centerline almost 8 inches above the barrel. do you use a reverse lift stock to handle the uplift?
07 November 2007, 01:37
jsl3170Jeez Louise. Never thought a typo would get so much copy. Excuse the pun... Yes, officially that is a 40 not 400 mm objective.
07 November 2007, 02:31
KY NimrodI think the easiest way to get from point A to point B might be to tell your smith what your goal is and what your expectations and budget are and let him tell you what he feels he needs to do to get you there.
On my recent post about my Penrod rifle I started out like you but ended up letting Mark tell me what HE thought the rifle needed to get it up to my expectations and within my budget. Well, he surpassed both my expectations and my budget (with my permission).... And he did some things I wouldn't have considered based on his experience working with M70s.
FWIW, I waited almost a year for my Blackburn bottom metal and it normally comes pretty rough. When its all said and done you are looking at around $600-$650 to fit and finish a Blackburn one piece triggerguard/floorplate including the price of the part.
Anyhow, my advice is to talk with your gunsmith first about goals and expectations, then let him make his recommendations. If you don't like with what he tells you he may not be the smith you want to use for this project!
He's a pro...you are paying for his experience and talent. But more for his experience...tap into it!
07 November 2007, 03:19
jsl3170Great advice! Thanks!
07 November 2007, 03:42
idahoelk101FWIW I had Pacnor do my barrel and install it and they did first rate work so numbers 1, 11b, and 12c ould be knoked out in one fell swoop.
As to the bottom metal, I got the Wisner units and have been very pleased so far.
07 November 2007, 04:04
OLBIKERSo whats the purpose of the single piece bottom metal??????All it does is make the Gun heavier.I had a 458 and the stock bottom metal never released from recoil!!!!!!
07 November 2007, 04:43
triggerguard1Here's a couple of items that would help your project out....
ExtractorBottom MetalWhat better??? You can save a ton of money without having to switch to Geiko...

Williams Machine Works
07 November 2007, 15:37
idahoelk101olbiker, like you I had no problems with the factory uniy, but it is a nice fit and function improvement.
07 November 2007, 17:56
tom ga hunterI had my gunsmith convert a 300wm action into a 375 H&H using factory parts. It cost about $50.00, used a 375 magazine box, 375 followler, 375 ejector & 375 Bolt stop. It works & feeds very well. I own 8 control feed m70's & have never had any of the problems you read about on the net.
07 November 2007, 18:36
Jim KobeAdd to the list a new checkered bolt knob. That original one fugly. While you are at it, add some custom scope bases to take the Talley lever-lok rings and what about sights? NECG masterpiece sights work quite well over the custom bases.
Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild