I used some Birchwood Casey Blue & Rust Remover on a barreled action, like the instructions implied, the solution leaves a rust/blueing prevention film on treated metal to prevent acids from eating anything other than blueing/rust, which is metal itself.

The solution contains three acids, sulfuric, oxalic and phosphoric. Looks like the reaction of phophoric acid and iron produced iron phosphate which being not soluble, is responsible for the protection film.

The film is however far from transparent. It is in itself a parkerizing(iron phosphate). The film takes up oil pretty well and is consistent troughout the whole barreled action. It looks matte gray with a slight dark olive green, far better than the original crappy blue job. So the "finish" just stayed on the rifle for now.

If I were to remove them parkerizings without using steel wool to reach every tiny, hard to reach corner and a huge amount of labor and patience, what should I use?

Thanks for info.

Pyrotek

What type of finish do you want to end up with?
With a sandblaster and small grit or glass media will take care of it and leave you with a smooth matte finish.

Although I've only used it on smaller parts you could also go with a soft wire wheel and gently buff the finish off.

Since Park. is a type of rust is there any way to use the cleaner again and then neutralize it before the fresh layer of park sets up?

Zak

Edited cuz I can't spell

[This message has been edited by Zak (edited 05-01-2002).]

Bead blast, see the post on bead blasting.

Zak, where in Washington? State I presume, not DC.

"caws" is why you do something, "cuz" is the gal you marry in Georgia.

John,
I'm due east from you in Snohomish.

I thought caws is the sound ravens and crows make

Zak