Real tung oil, not fake.

15 March 2002, 09:22

There seems to be a lot of finishing oils out there that are labelled "tung oil" but are not real tung oil, just modified varnish.

What brand of tung oil is 100% pure tung oil without even petroleum distillates?

15 March 2002, 00:55

<George Stringer>

Pyrotek, Brownells www.brownells.com sells 100% pure tung oil. I forget the brand. George

15 March 2002, 05:19

Big Dipper

Another source for best-quality pure tung oil(no solvents or driers
added):

http://woodfinishingsupplies.com/Varnishes.asp

Regards,
Wayne E.

15 March 2002, 15:42

D Humbarger

Be cautious with Tung oil. Some folks have alerigic reactions to it. During WWII GI's were picking up Japanese rifles & some were coming down with a mysterious rash. It was first assumed that the guns were sabotaged with some sort of infectious compound, knowing the American Gi's lust for war trophys. Later it was discovered that some people are just alergic to Tung oil which the Japanese rifle stocks were finished with.

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NRA Life member

15 March 2002, 18:02

Alex Szabo

Pyro,

If you use real tung, you will have a storage problem once you are done with your project.

My old late friend Hoffie taught me an old trick of taking shiny stones and filling it up the oil container until the volume of stones displaced the oil to the top of the container.

By removing all air, your oil will last longer. Otherwise, the stuff will become useless and it is expensive stuff.

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Best regards,
Alex

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote! - Benjamin Franklin 1759

[This message has been edited by Alex Szabo (edited 03-15-2002).]

15 March 2002, 20:27

aHunter

Please pardon my ignorance, but what IS tung oil? Where from is it?

( ashamed, Hermann )

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16 March 2002, 01:07

Pyrotek

Thanks for replies.

Tung oil is an oil that is said to be a better finishing oil than linseed oil, it dries faster, gives a harder finish, is waterproof, will not darken with age. However it is more expensive and there's a lot of mimic products that is labelled "tung oil" or "tung oil finish" but aren't realy tung oil.

Tung oil is pressed from nuts of a tung tree, it grew originally in China, then the specie is moved to Florida, becoming available in US and western world.

And "Tung" is actually pronounced "tong", as it is a Chinese word.

[This message has been edited by Pyrotek (edited 03-15-2002).]

16 March 2002, 11:07

Atkinson

I'll take the fake stuff anyday, I like the varnish and dryers..Pure oils suck as a gun finish.....Trueoil is a good example of a modified tung oil and its a dandy finish. Linspeed is modified Linseed oil and its a proven finish...I like any oil modified polyurathane or oil modified urathane. some of the new stuff from Brownells like Chem pro is great.

The old tip about rocks and marbles in the finish cracks me up...let it stand for a while and you have this bunch of rocks or marbles with a yellow crud about 1/4" thick all over them and dried crap floating around in the finish and the can is ruined, sorry but thats the truth....

I actually toss some of the worst offenders when the gun is finished, and buy another can for the next gun and so fourth.
I have a bunch of little containers that I can pour up some of the less sinsitive stuff in and that works...the containers are just enough for one stock....

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

16 March 2002, 11:42

Ultraman

Pay total attention to Ol Ray's post. He has hit every point RIGHT ON THE HEAD!!! There was a time when I would use nothing other than genuine tung oil.......what wasted time. If you live in a hot and humid climate....even worse. The newer blend finishes are great, durable, THEY DRY!!! and bring out the beauty of the wood which is the whole point. Hell, anyone can spray some glossy polyurethane crap on a stock, but a hand applied blend can't be beat. You can take it back down to satin or polish out to gloss/sheen. One blend I realy swear by is Pilkingtons (sp?) from Brownells. I like it better than Tru-oil and if you store the can upside down you will get better shelf life out of it. BUT, shelf life is an issue with any finish and bottom line is with the labor involved by a fresh $8 can, if it is more than a month between projects (rocks???). OH MY GOD I have never agreed with RAY COMPLETELY....what does this mean??

16 March 2002, 12:00

Mauser98

You can delay the inevitable drying in the can by storing the container upside-down.

16 March 2002, 14:05

Mark

Or put it in a plastic bottle and squeeze the air out of the bottle before you cap it.

16 March 2002, 17:48

Alex Szabo

quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
<snip>...The old tip about rocks and marbles in the finish cracks me up...let it stand for a while and you have this bunch of rocks or marbles with a yellow crud about 1/4" thick all over them and dried crap floating around in the finish and the can is ruined, sorry but thats the truth....
<snip>...

LOL Ray! Old Hoffie (God bless him) had told me many strange things in his day. I am sure he would laugh at that too.

It is interesting the things we remember and automatically think that it is good becuase an old timer said so...

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Best regards,
Alex

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote! - Benjamin Franklin 1759

[This message has been edited by Alex Szabo (edited 03-16-2002).]

16 March 2002, 18:57

Customstox

Ray, have you tried that can of BennMatte I sent you yet? For everyone else's information it is a polymer modified Tung oil (fake to some of you) and it is so superior to 100% tung oil that it isn't funny. I was put onto it by Maurice Ottmar and have used it ever since. It imparts a beautiful finish and is easy to use. A built up coat gives a wonderful water resistant finish. AND IT DRIES.

Chic

17 March 2002, 05:18

<OTTO>

I have been using a Danish Oil Finish. I apply until it stops absorbing into the wood. Let dry, sand down to the wood again then wet sand wth the finish and 400 gr paper. I've done several of my own stocks that way.

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From my cold, dead hands!
Thanks Chuck!

17 March 2002, 13:43

Atkinson

Chic,
I will be using that finish on the 375 Holland and Holland that I am restoring, the one that Jack refers to as grand dads axe...two new heads and two new handles and its still Grandads axe...

One thing for sure it will be a fine gun when finished..albiet with many rebuilt and new parts, but what the heck, it sure won't look like the gun that came out of that Elephant poaching, aligator hunters dugout canoe. I can't believe it took me three years of labor and love to replace a rifle under a quarter rib

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com