The Accurate Reloading Forums
Barreled action needs rust bluing
15 March 2018, 08:56
lawndartBarreled action needs rust bluing
I got my 9.3 x 64 barrelled action back a few days ago. What is the going rate for rust bluing a mauser action with attached barrel?
Any recommendations?
Many thanks in advance
15 March 2018, 23:58
AtkinsonAbout $300 is the average cost of a true rust blue..but they unscrew the barrel as a rule, I would request that option or did I misread your post..?
Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120
rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
16 March 2018, 02:05
BobsterThat's about right. I've seen some as high as $400. You might consider trying it yourself for $80 in chemicals and equipment. With the steam method you can do the barreled action as a unit.
www.rustblue.comquote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
About $300 is the average cost of a true rust blue..but they unscrew the barrel as a rule, I would request that option or did I misread your post..?
Why would you want to remove the barrel?
16 March 2018, 04:44
setters5Even if you are lucky and no oil seeps out to ruin things, you will be introducing moisture to the barrel/reciever threads. Rust is certainly a possibility.
Greg
That won't happen, in my experience; I have done it many times. I always leave the barrels on. The bores don't rust either, like some think they will. Only parts with acid on them, rust.
16 March 2018, 05:14
craigsterquote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
That won't happen, in my experience; I have done it many times. I always leave the barrels on. The bores don't rust either, like some think they will. Only parts with acid on them, rust.
I've done many more than a few the same way, never had a problem.
BTW, Bob's Rust Blue is great stuff. And when it comes to good guys, Bob is in the upper echelon.
16 March 2018, 05:21
setters5You guys must live right, I have had problems. You're right, bores don't rust, but they aren't closed up either. Not saying it's wrong, just they way it works for me.
Greg
When you fit your barrels, do not use oil on the threads; use anti seize compound. It won't melt out and ruin your bluing and the threads won't rust.
16 March 2018, 07:29
setters5That's fine,if you have done the barreling yourself.
lawndart, I'm glad to see you back at it. I have had experience with oil or grease coming out of the action threads and making a mess of the job.
Best to remove barrel and assemble with moly grease when done. I also like to coat the bore with two aplications of Permalyn stock finish. Easy clean up after with acetone. I believe the vapors of the bluing can cause a light etching of the bore. We used to use McCormik's bluing in Vancover, Wa. - George Komadena was the great rust bluer. My wife does ours now and could not afford to do it for money. Much time involved. I hope this helps. We use a fine 6" four row wheel from Brownels for carding and degreased steel wool as well.
Why would anyone risk marring the new finish from installing the barrel when you could just as easily, remove it, coat the threads with a non melting grease, and reassemble it before you do the bluing.
17 March 2018, 03:44
BobsterI've rust blued a number of military barreled actions using the steam method, not the boiling water method. I simply take the precaution of painting the barrel receiver joint with clear lacquer prior to blueing. Brush it on and take a rag wet with lacquer thinner and wipe off leaving the lacquer in the joint. Let it dry and proceed. If you hang the B/A receiver down in my steam pipe the lube won't come out anyway. I have to agree w/ DPCD, "why risk marring the new finish...."
Bob
www.rustblue.com17 March 2018, 04:07
Bobsterquote:
Originally posted by crf:
My wife does ours now and could not afford to do it for money. Much time involved.
I invite you to visit my website and learn a new method that will revolutionize your shop. Actually an old forgotten method. The accelerated rust blue method. With minimal expenditure of time, materials,money, and labor you can easily complete a gun in a day.
Craigster: Thanks for your comments. They are much appreciated. I am here to serve.
Bob
www.rusblue.comMy wife likes to adjust the time for the first application of solution to get a finer etch on the surface - 3-5 hrs. then boil for ten minutes. Card This gives a very fine but not gloss finish. It
takes 5 to 7 coats usually to get a good "shell".
We use a paper packing tape on fresh blued metal between the barrel and barrel vice blocks - same for action to action wrench. We have only used the boiling method which has worked well for us.
17 March 2018, 05:13
BobsterIf you would like to rust your metal for 45 minutes instead of 5 hrs and then boil you may want to visit my site.
Bob
quote:
e
Bobster, thanks for the invite. I've been there before. Very informative. We are kind of set in our ways for now using a solution given to us by an old friend. Someday when we run out we will try some of yours. Thank you.
Bobster is right; I use his steam tube method with no drama. I just don't have time to do the OPs metal at this time.
I recommend a bead blast hot blue in this case. It will look good. Paying full retail for a rust blue job is not worth it on a hunting rifle. Maybe a top notch restoration.
17 March 2018, 08:18
Fjoldquote:
Originally posted by Bobster:
quote:
Originally posted by crf:
My wife does ours now and could not afford to do it for money. Much time involved.
I invite you to visit my website and learn a new method that will revolutionize your shop. Actually an old forgotten method. The accelerated rust blue method. With minimal expenditure of time, materials,money, and labor you can easily complete a gun in a day.
Craigster: Thanks for your comments. They are much appreciated. I am here to serve.
Bob
www.rusblue.com
I clicked on your link and it says that the page doesn't exist. You have "rusblue", I changed it to "rustblue" and it worked.
Frank
"I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money."
- Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953
NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite
quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
Bobster is right; I use his steam tube method with no drama. I just don't have time to do the OPs metal at this time.
I recommend a bead blast hot blue in this case. It will look good. Paying full retail for a rust blue job is not worth it on a hunting rifle. Maybe a top notch restoration.
Wow, that's the most f'd up statement I've heard in some time.
Considering I only rust blue, and none of my customers ever complained about price or appearance, I think they'd beg to differ.
So, are you saying you don't charge "full retail" for your steam tube rust blue?
Aut vincere aut mori
Most of my customers won't pay $400 for bluing. Yours are of a higher echelon than mine.
I guess the fact that I didn't have a caustic bluing setup helped.
Aut vincere aut mori
I do offer hot salt bluing and for my clientele who just want basic hunting rifles, that is usually good enough. Now, for the high dollar, customs, that is different.
18 March 2018, 00:42
lawndartI want to thank you all for the information. This sounds like a perfect project for a rainy winter day here in the high desert portion of the Pacific North West. I really appreciate all the tips for dealing with the barrel/receiver junction.
My last gunsmith was going to rust blue my rifle, but then said he didn't offer the service. Sounds like a new skill to learn before before Croaksville.
18 March 2018, 02:00
richjI'm not the most patient guy in the world but I gave it try.... 3 times :-).
Got a buddy to make a 48" stainless pan for boiled water. You know how long it takes to boil 7 gallons of water. (steaming next time)
Used pilkingtons. (bobster next time)
Took 6-7 coats - 4 hrs between each.
Carded with a fine wire wheel.
They came out fine but for the sharp edges.
Steaming only requires boiling one quart of water.
18 March 2018, 02:28
craigsterI've done it/do it both ways. Two tips/suggestions. When using steam, preheat the parts, use a full head of steam.
18 March 2018, 04:59
BobsterGreat best practice! Make sure the steel is at a temp beyond the dew point before introducing into steam. This prevents spotting. Not too hard. Just use a space heater to preheat. And have the steam system at full steam when introducing the metal. That is how factories did it back in the day.
quote:
Originally posted by craigster:
I've done it/do it both ways. Two tips/suggestions. When using steam, preheat the parts, use a full head of steam.
19 March 2018, 06:47
CraftsmanGentlemen : What is your favorite type of applicator for applying the solution ? I always used a piece of
cotton flannel. But someone recommended a very fine bristle brush.
Craftsman
Cotton ball. I can't see any kind of brush working. Too much acid will ruin it.
19 March 2018, 09:01
craigsterCotton ball in a hemostat. I've also used the foam throw away paint "brushes".
19 March 2018, 09:08
Michael RobinsonThe steam method seems a hell of a lot easier than boiling, etc.
I have a project that would be perfect for it and will give it a try.
Thanks for the post and the great ideas and discussion.
Mike
Wilderness is my cathedral, and hunting is my prayer.
20 March 2018, 03:52
A7Davequote:
Originally posted by z1r:
I guess the fact that I didn't have a caustic bluing setup helped.
For Pete's sake, get rid of the F-ing jumping chihuahua avatar. Switch to Fjold's jumping boobs if you want people to read your posts.
Dave
20 March 2018, 05:40
richjArtists brush. With a brush there is less wiping of the finish. Just takes longer to apply.
quote:
Originally posted by Craftsman:
Gentlemen : What is your favorite type of applicator for applying the solution ? I always used a piece of
cotton flannel. But someone recommended a very fine bristle brush.
20 March 2018, 06:38
Uncle Grinchquote:
Originally posted by A7Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by z1r:
I guess the fact that I didn't have a caustic bluing setup helped.
For Pete's sake, get rid of the F-ing jumping chihuahua avatar. Switch to Fjold's jumping boobs if you want people to read your posts.
Mike, I liked your older avatar of the young lady shooting prone.
Shoot Safe,
Mike
NRA Endowment Member
quote:
Originally posted by Uncle Grinch:
quote:
Originally posted by A7Dave:
quote:
Originally posted by z1r:
I guess the fact that I didn't have a caustic bluing setup helped.
For Pete's sake, get rid of the F-ing jumping chihuahua avatar. Switch to Fjold's jumping boobs if you want people to read your posts.
Mike, I liked your older avatar of the young lady shooting prone.
Lol, so did I. Thank Photobucket for it going away.
Aut vincere aut mori
20 March 2018, 07:06
Mike_DettorreA dozen years as a management consultant, taught me how to google search and copy paste
MikeLegistine actu quod scripsi?
Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.
What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
20 March 2018, 08:06
NakihunterCan someone please help with a video of metal prep BEFORE applying the acid solution?
I have read a lot about this and I am convinced that the metal prep is the key. Should I remove all the sights & trigger? What do i do with bolt? What about all the other bits?
a video would be a great help.
I have a Remington .22 sitting around for about 8+ years waiting to be my first crack at rust bluing. I also have a classic Mannlicher Schoenauer that I want to rust blue.
I have got one lot of acids mixed with steel wool dissolved in it for several years. I have another lot nitric & hydrochloric acids and a source of ferric chloride to make a solution. I even got my son to weld up a boiling tank.
"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick."
Thanks Mike, now I have the best of both worlds!
Aut vincere aut mori
