08 December 2016, 01:12
WoodHunterA Tip From David Wesbrook's Book
I posted this in classifieds a few minutes ago and thought the stock makers would be interested:
David has a lot of tips and techniques in his book.
One of the better things his book taught me to make is this:
Used to gauge the flatness of the stock before and after the cheek piece. This one needs more work: Should not see any daylight between the wood and the gauge, except for the clearance over the cheek piece.
Sure would like it if he wrote Volumn II !!
08 December 2016, 02:08
ramrod340Simple things can make the job simpler.

Sure beats trying to "eyeball" it.
Just placed an order for the book on Amazon.
08 December 2016, 21:24
WoodHunterI made it from phosphor bronze spring stock. Nice and hard and no rust.
Milled the important edges straight in my vertical mill.
08 December 2016, 22:08
Duane Wiebe (CG&R)If you make it out of wood, about 1/2" thick, you can put inletting black on each end to get it to the "N th" degree
14 December 2016, 02:51
ramrod340My copy of the book just arrived. Time for a glass of wine and reading.

14 December 2016, 21:04
ramrod340Well 2 glasses of wine

and an enjoyable start to a great reference book.

26 December 2016, 03:20
WoodHunterquote:
Originally posted by Ossi_Iceland:
What book is that?
26 December 2016, 04:57
CraftsmanI made mine out of aluminum. Alvin Linden made his out of wood.
31 December 2016, 22:56
Fal Gruntquote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
If you make it out of wood, about 1/2" thick, you can put inletting black on each end to get it to the "N th" degree
Same concept as when I scrape a machine way in to 50 millionths. Great idea Duane

I might make one for myself and the guy who's been doing some stock work for me.
Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.comFollow us on Instagram and YouTube
I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.