I have a newly acquired win 70 in 416 win mag. I would like to polish everything possible in the action to make it feed as smoothly as possible. I have no intention of grinding anything away.
So, for he purpose of making the action work smoothly, can I have suggestions of exactly what to polish, and specifically what paste I should use?
This gun will eventually be going to American Hunting Rifles for a good going over, but not this year. For now i have lots of rifle practice to do.
The trigger is very nice, no need to polish anything in there.

Start by reading Duane Wiebe's excellent post at the top of this forum.

Frank, Brownells has quite a few gunsmithing videos on youtube. Might be worth a look, they're pretty informative and well done.

Whilst watching your favorite form of video entertainment, work the bolt open and closed until you arm is tired, you develop blisters or your partner is driven to the edge of madness. Repeat.

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Whilst watching your favorite form of video entertainment, work the bolt open and closed until you arm is tired, you develop blisters or your partner is driven to the edge of madness. Repeat.

Hadn't realized those toes were so delicate; hope they're not bruised.

want a real eye opener?

Take some Dykem Blue (my favorite) or Red, and coat the locking lugs with a thin coat. Front and rear.

I am not any kind of gunsmith, but about 1988 I took a rifle, doesn't matter which American made one, to a gunsmith for "accurizing".

He coated them both, and made me cycle the bolt about six or seven times. I pull the bolt and look at the smear marks. One lug (rear) is smeared clean, about 90%. The other one did not touch. He laughed, and then told me; that one is the spare...

That's why I like to take my stuff to a smith. It just kind of bugs me to have the lugs off balance and stuff. Same with squaring the bolt face.
I've heard that with enough effort and lapping compound this can be done at home. But I don't know.

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Originally posted by Idaho Sharpshooter:
want a real eye opener?

Take some Dykem Blue (my favorite) or Red, and coat the locking lugs with a thin coat. Front and rear.

I am not any kind of gunsmith, but about 1988 I took a rifle, doesn't matter which American made one, to a gunsmith for "accurizing".

He coated them both, and made me cycle the bolt about six or seven times. I pull the bolt and look at the smear marks. One lug (rear) is smeared clean, about 90%. The other one did not touch. He laughed, and then told me; that one is the spare...

Awesome. Thank you.

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Originally posted by RichardAustin:
Frank, Brownells has quite a few gunsmithing videos on youtube. Might be worth a look, they're pretty informative and well done.

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Originally posted by Toomany Tools:
Whilst watching your favorite form of video entertainment, work the bolt open and closed until you arm is tired, you develop blisters or your partner is driven to the edge of madness. Repeat.

That's working the bolt until the metal rubs itself smooth.
I would have to think adding a polishing paste to the process would speed things up. Maybe something like the 3 micon diamond paste i have for polishing scissors.

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That's working the bolt until the metal rubs itself smooth. I would have to think adding a polishing paste to the process would speed things up. Maybe something like the 3 micon diamond paste i have for polishing scissors.

Yep. I have used a fine polish (sorry don't remember the brand) it will speed it up. I make sure I don't get it on the back of the lugs.

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Originally posted by frank4570:
I have a newly acquired win 70 in 416 win mag.

What's a 416 Win Mag?

It's a Winchester Model 70 in 416 Rem Mag.

It is what it is...a hunting rig.

Just reload for it & shoot it!

When you shoot the barrel out,then have it re-barreled & action trued.

Yeah, Win 70 in 416 rem mag, I guess I was typing too fast.
On the upside, I put it on a scale and discovered it weighs 7lbs 8oz. I believe that just might have something to do with the perceived recoil. Thank goodness I handload.

Keep the polishing paste clear of the bolt handle root if you are fully cycling the action to avoid creating "wiggle" room.

You can still run the bolt straight forward and back with paste on.

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Originally posted by lawndart:
Keep the polishing paste clear of the bolt handle root if you are fully cycling the action to avoid creating "wiggle" room.

You can still run the bolt straight forward and back with paste on.

That's very important and I had no idea about that. Thanks!

\I have a rifle I built years ago for hunting.

It is a Dakota 76 action, and have been to Africa many times.

It is as slick as any action I have now, due to all the dust we get while hunting.

I never clean it while on safari, except if it rains.

Maybe you should give that gun a chance to rest. I'll let you borrow my gun for hunting in africa, and you can return it when it is like glass.

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Originally posted by Saeed:
\I have a rifle I built years ago for hunting.

It is a Dakota 76 action, and have been to Africa many times.

It is as slick as any action I have now, due to all the dust we get while hunting.

I never clean it while on safari, except if it rains.

Here's how I do it.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...011002801#4011002801

^Very helpful. Thanks for the link.