Hi--having problems with my brno 22
Has new barrel and have bedded it twice
Any ideas would be appreciated
This model has a screw 1/3 up the barrel
Has anyone tried putting a second screw on the back of the action and not use the front screw??
Thanks Sydney

What problems are you having? Hard to propose a solution before knowing what you are trying to solve.

Hi--You are right--sorry about that
It will not group better than 2 inches at 50 yards--tried many types of ammo-changed scopes
touched up the crown
Out of ideas
Sydney

How have you been cleaning the bore?

No I haven t --it has appox 200 rds
What would you suggest ??
Thanks Sydney

i'd try lapping the bore and if that didn't work it's down the road

quote:

Originally posted by Sydney:
No I haven t --it has appox 200 rds
What would you suggest ??
Thanks Sydney

If it's a new barrel and you haven't cleaned the bore yet, I'd give that a try. What kind of barrel is it?

Hi--It s a Shilen barrel--I will give a good cleaning and try again
Thanks Sydney

quote:

Originally posted by Sydney:
Hi--It s a Shilen barrel--I will give a good cleaning and try again
Thanks Sydney

I'd pay special attention to the area just ahead of the chamber. You may find this interesting: http://www.rrdvegas.com/rimfire-cleaning.html 200 rounds isn't too much for a rimfire but since its new, maybe there's already something building up in the barrel.

If you are using the barrel tie down screw take it out and try it.
Yes I have installed another action screw, it doesn't hurt.
I usually just go with the one centre action screw, not too tight though.

Hi Metal-- please explain the bedding system you used using just 1 screw ??
Thanks Sydney

Nothing special really, just make sure the action has good even contact and use the centre screw to hold everything in, sounds a bit weak but it works fine.
You could float the barrel too if you wanted.
I did this to the first one I had and it went from 1" to 1/2" groups.

Hi--I will try tomorrow
Thanks to all for the ideas
Sydney

This is a disappointing situation; to actually wear out a .22LR barrel, replace it with another from a prestigious maker and have that happen.

I would run it past the gunsmith who installed the new barrel.

Having a screw in the barrel is a bit old-fashioned and bound to add complications. Perhaps some cardboard or clear plastic sheet could be tried each side of the screw or in other areas, such as near the tip of the fore end.

Hi Metal--I did as you suggested and it made a huge difference--free floated the barrel and tried different tension on the screw--will go back and try some different ammo
Thanks Sydney

Hope you can get it to cloverleaf, cheers.

Just a couple of thoughts on things that I have recently learned teaching 4H Small-Bore Rifle Shooting.
Make sure your chamber and bore are free of crud.
Make sure your bolt face is free of crud.
Clean your barrel.
Keep trying different brands of ammo. Shoot at least 2 five-shot groups of each type you try. It takes at least 5 shots of a particular type of ammo for the bore to get coated with the "secret sauce" of that type of ammo.

For example, I had never tried seriously to get my Ruger 10-22, with laminated "Mannlicher" stock and stainless steel action and barrel, to shoot well. It has a Nikon P-22 2-7 BDC scope and I considered it just a fun gun.

Then I thought I'd see how accurate it really was. I cleaned thoroughly the surfaces I noted above then began ammo tests.

I won't bore you with what didn't work at all and with what sort of worked. But Eley Club shot @ .5" at 25 yards and Eley Tenex shot .3" at 25 yards. The Eley Club, in a fairly brisk wind (this is Kansas, after all), shot 1.7" at 100 yards and the Eley Tenex 1.22". There were a couple of other brands and types that were close to the Eley Club but the Eley Tenex was the stellar performer.
Not really match performance but this is just a normal full-stocked 17 year-old Ruger 10-22. From my experience finding the right ammo is the key to getting a .22 to shoot as accurately as it can.