I was wondering what you would use to file the bearing surface of a Remington factory trigger. I've got a model 700 that I've been playing with and I have the sear engagement, trigger weight, and overtravel adjusted to where it feels good and is safe. I've tested a couple of triggers that have been filed and they feel much better. It looks like the corners have been filed perfectly square. On my factory trigger, the top edge of the sear appears to be slightly rounded. Just wondering what you would use to achieve this or if its even worth trying to do myself. Thanks- Rob

quote:

Originally posted by rob270WSM:
I was wondering what you would use to file the bearing surface of a Remington factory trigger. I've got a model 700 that I've been playing with and I have the sear engagement, trigger weight, and overtravel adjusted to where it feels good and is safe. I've tested a couple of triggers that have been filed and they feel much better. It looks like the corners have been filed perfectly square. On my factory trigger, the top edge of the sear appears to be slightly rounded. Just wondering what you would use to achieve this or if its even worth trying to do myself. Thanks- Rob

Welcome. Making adjustments to a trigger is one thing, recutting sear angles is something else entirely. Unless you know what you are doing and what the consequences are for the specific cut you intend to make, I would suggest leaving that particular type of adjustment to an expert.

If you are referring to the top of the sear that engages the cocking notch it is supposed to be rounded and shaped on an angle. DO NOT try to change this shape or angle.

Well I guess I will leave it where it is. I didn't know there was a specific angle cut into the sear. Thanks- Rob

quote:

Originally posted by rob270WSM:
Well I guess I will leave it where it is. I didn't know there was a specific angle cut into the sear. Thanks- Rob

These types of firing mechanisms are not designed like the ones that have a 90 degree/square mating surface of the sear and cocking piece. 90 degree styles pull/lever the sear down and out of the way so the firing pin can travel forward.

On the angled styles when the trigger is pulled it allows the cocking piece (under firing pin spring pressure) to push the sear down out of its way as it travels forward. The angled mating surfaces aide this function. If the coocking piece and sear had a square 90 degree mating surface the sear couldn’t be pushed down with the forward movement of the cocking piece/firing pin, it would just hang there blocking any forward movement.

Hope this explains things as sometimes being descriptive in writing has it’s limitations.

There is something your can do that you will notice an improvement with crispness and locktime. Contact Gre-Tan Rifles and get their fluted firing pin complete assembly. This will have stronger spring and aluminum shroud. The cocking piece is cut with a very sharp edge and sear breaks off it crisply.

You can accomplish almost the same thing wearing a pair of ear protectors.

The “crisp break†on a Remington style of trigger is from the engagement surface of the trigger connector and it’s mating edge on the bottom of the sear, NOT the connection between the cocking piece and the top of the sear.

There is no benefit or reason to have sharp edges or surfaces on the top of the sear or the bottom of the cocking piece.

The sear on these types of triggers is literally acting as a wedge that blocks the forward travel of the firing pin until the trigger is pulled and allows the sear to be shoved down and out of the way. The trigger is just propping up the back end of the sear and holding it in place.

If you cut away the top portion of a Remington 700 rear bridge (or just bored it out a bit) you would never be able to keep the rifle cocked. The back of the bolt would be pushed up and the cocking piece would slide over right over the sear as soon as you rotated the bolt down to close it.

fyj, your explanation makes a lot of sense after looking at the trigger assembly a little closer. Thanks. Hey what do you guys know about lubrication inside the bolt assembly. I recently watched a video where the guy said that remington uses a real thick lubricant around the firing pin and he replaces it with either a high grade oil or dry graphite. From what I understand, inconsistant firing pin speed can negatively impact accuracy. What do you think? Thanks, Rob

Firing pins should have no thick grease, just a thin coat of oil, or a spray of dry moly lube(best). Clean out the inside of the bolt with WD40 spray, and a 50 cal brush, too. You can leave a thin coat of WD40 in the bolt-won't hurt, and gives some rust protection. Moly spray on bolt threads and cocking cam is very nice for smooth operation.

quote:

Originally posted by xs headspace:
Firing pins should have no thick grease, just a thin coat of oil, or a spray of dry moly lube(best). Clean out the inside of the bolt with WD40 spray, and a 50 cal brush, too. You can leave a thin coat of WD40 in the bolt-won't hurt, and gives some rust protection. Moly spray on bolt threads and cocking cam is very nice for smooth operation.

It is apparent you missed the recent thread on the detrimental effects of WD-40 on anything but fishing lures.

I’ve never been a fan of allot of lubrication on firearms, but I do put a drop or three of Militech oil on the firing pin spring and a small dab (that’s a technical term )of Militech grease on the cocking cam and backs of the lugs.