The Accurate Reloading Forums
Recoil pad removal from Finnbear

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https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411043/m/3001053

21 November 2004, 09:18
hoehne
Recoil pad removal from Finnbear
Is there a secret to this, I have tried everything but cannot get a screwdriver to "catch" the screws. Thanks-Karl
21 November 2004, 10:46
Fish30114
Have you tried both flat blade and phillips? I have had same version of the rifles in different calibers that had different screws.
Good Luck--D.
21 November 2004, 10:51
hoehne
Fish-Tried everything, changed sizes of head on the screwdrivers, can't figure what I am doing wrong. Thanks-Karl
21 November 2004, 12:13
Customstox
heohne,
If you don't care about the pad, take a sharp knife or razor type of box knife and cut most of the rubber away exposing the screw. Think you can figure it out from there.
21 November 2004, 12:38
Bill Leeper
The pad is glued on and the "screws" are actually steel dowels. It's a good thing you don't care about saving the pad since about all you can do is pucker up and kiss it goodbye!
If you cut away the rubber portion (be careful with that knife!), you can usually grab the dowel with a pair of pliers and, with a twisting motion, pull it out. Sometimes it's not that easy and you may have to give the dowel a light smack with a hammer to loosen it up. Good Luck. Regards, Bill.
21 November 2004, 12:02
hoehne
chrompf-Don't care about the old pad, just want to get it off. The former owner must have had the same problem as there was a bit of the pad cut out to try to get to the screw and as such I can see no slot or Phillips head on the screw. I am stumped!
21 November 2004, 13:13
hoehne
I was hoping to hear from you Bill,lost your e-mial address in a computer change. I have some minor dwork to do are you interested? E-mail me at khhoehne@shaw.ca
21 November 2004, 11:30
schromf
First don't use a screwdriver with a removeable head, it will bugger up the pad. try using a long #1 phillips screwdriver. Get some vaseline and rub it around the crosses in the pad, and apply it to the blade of the driver, this will allow you to get the driver into the pad without damaging it. This should take a #1 phillips or smaller but you could have damaged the heads by using a too large driver head. If you can't get the #1 to work get out your electronics screwdrivers and use the #0. The head takes a small headed screwdriver on these.

If your pad is old and hard it can be resurrected by creative use of the microwave and rubbing a softening compound into it.
21 November 2004, 17:59
schromf
Were these different during the model years? Mine is a L61R Forester and it has screws with the ugly shotgun type pad. Mine is also the standard sporter model not a deluxe. I am not at home with the rifle right now but I think mine is in the 1958-60 era. Was there differences between pre Garcia, Garcia, and Rymac rifles?

If your not saving the pad, cutting it of with a matt knife is going to be the best. I would masking tape around the stock before getting started with the knife just to protect the wood.
22 November 2004, 04:53
Fish30114
Schromf, there is definitely some difference, I had a '65 era rifle that had phillips screws, and one from the late sixties, (not sure when--I bought used) that had flat blade screws. In addition as Bill said some apparently have pins or studs instead. Some of the wiser forum members can probably cite chapter and verse for you.
Good Luck--D.
29 November 2004, 07:41
ELB
Both of my Forester L 579`s and my AV Sako had pinned red hard rubber butt pads! On all three I used a HD metal handle box cutter knife between butt and pad! Slowly go around & around with slight lift as your blade gets deeper! When you have enough gap, pry pad off pins with thin sided s/s screwdriver! You need not damage butt, pad, or pins! Ed