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Re: Removing a Barrel without a Barrel Vise

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10 December 2004, 06:01
Kory
Re: Removing a Barrel without a Barrel Vise
Quote:

OK Thanks Kory, I think I get it now. It`s used to hold the action & try to avoid torsional stress ?

Are they made to fit individual actions or are they generic with specific type inserts ?

cheers Morton



Morton,

Yes, they are used to safely grab and hold the action without causing any damage.

There are some generics for flat bottom and round bottom actions, and I've seen some specifics. I suspect the specifics "fit" better.

Go to http://www.brownells.com/ and search for "action wrench". You'll see what I mean.

Good luck,
Kory
06 December 2004, 15:33
Toolmaker
Sure, if you have access to a machine shop, you build a barrel vise!

Toolmaker
06 December 2004, 15:23
Kory
Is there any clever alternative for a DIY type of gunsmith to remove threaded barrels if you don't own a barrel vise?

Thanks,
Kory
06 December 2004, 15:30
wallyw
Lots of luck
06 December 2004, 15:44
Kory
Quote:

Sure, if you have access to a machine shop, you build a barrel vise!

Toolmaker



Actually I do, so I may.

Thanks,
Kory
06 December 2004, 15:45
Cheechako
Kory

If you're talking factory barrels and you want to re-use the barrel - No. If you're throwing away the barrel - Yes. If you're dealing with benchrest rifles with low-torque change barrels it can be done with a minimum of tools.
06 December 2004, 16:27
Kory
Quote:

Kory

If you're talking factory barrels and you want to re-use the barrel - No. If you're throwing away the barrel - Yes. If you're dealing with benchrest rifles with low-torque change barrels it can be done with a minimum of tools.



In this case, its a 1938 Turkish Mauser and I will throw away the barrel.

By the way, were all of the 1938 Turkish Mausers the 98 model? Is there a way to verify this? I just bought one at a gun show (it was the only one left), and I want to make sure I didn't get ripped off.

Thanks,
Kory
06 December 2004, 16:57
rembo
Quote:

Quote:

Sure, if you have access to a machine shop, you build a barrel vise!

Toolmaker



Actually I do, so I may.

Thanks,
Kory



If you have access to a machine shop you don't have to build a barrel vise. I have removed and installed at least 20 barrels without a barrel vise. If I am scrapping the old barrel I chuck it up in a 24" 4 jaw with a rear entry action wrench supported by the tail stock. With the headstock in neutral and using the chuck as a flywheel it pops them right off. I have also used the hydraulic chuck in one of the CNC machines with a brass sleeve made to fit the barrel.This works great with barrels that you want to reuse or sell. Build an action wrench instead of a barrel vise.
06 December 2004, 18:35
RayO
All 98's have a third locking lug just ahead of the bolt handle and cock on opening.Pre98's didn't have these features.
06 December 2004, 18:46
Lar45
Get a couple of large blocks of steel, 1x2" or something similar. Drill an oversize hole in the middle with them clamped together. Make shims from brass stock. I drilled holes through mine and tapped holes in my bench vise to mount it there. I got a 1x1x20" square stock and drilled 2 holes for a U-bolt to go around the action. It worked fine for me with a minimum of cash outlay.



What ya planning on building?
06 December 2004, 18:47
olcrip
All the 1938 Turks were large ring Mausers with small ring barrels. They had a bunch of the old barrels left over from some insurection or whatever and so commisioned the 1938s to be built with small ring thread. If you wanted to go with a 7x57 there are tons of small ring barrels floating around ( I tried to get one to float once and it sank like a rock).
06 December 2004, 19:05
Clark
If you don't care about the barrel, you can use a pipe wrench on the barrel and it will come off, but it really chews up the barrel.

I have broken a 6" bench vice with wood blocks and rosin, while trying to take off a rusted on barrel from an old military rifle. It kept slipping and I kept hitting the vice handle with a sledge hammer. Don't do that. It breaks the vice and the barrel still won't come off.

So I built a barrel vice and made collets.
picture of the barrel vice I made. It is bolted to the bench, which is made of 5/8" plate steel.
07 December 2004, 07:17
befus
There are some reports of Turkish 1938 type rifles with large ring threads. Some of them began life as Gew 98's. I have a 6.5 Swede barrel on one with the small ring threads and like it a lot. One way to loosen a barrel is to get a dremel or similar tool and cut a groove around the barrel close to where it goes in the action (1/16th inch or so) . This relieves stress on they usually come off pretty easily.
08 December 2004, 08:45
Edmond
If I don't keep the barrel or when it is nearly impossible to disassemble a normal way because of rust or a sealant in the thread, I cut the barrel and let approximately one inch long , I drill until what is left is very thin and easily broken.

hth
09 December 2004, 01:30
morton3
OK I`ll bite. What`s an action wrench ?

I have a small southbend hobby lathe which I suspect is not big enought for serious gunsmithing.

The Martini cadet action I have needs a new tube in it, I`m looking at .218 bee.

How do I ream this, or should I just buy a barrel already reamed for this calibre ?
09 December 2004, 08:52
Head Trauma
If you are going to scrap the barrel there is an easy, Afghani gunsmithing way to get it off. Use a Dremel tool with a cut-off blade (or hacksaw) to make a circumferential relief cut about 1/4" deep just in front of the action shoulder.Squirt some Kroil or other penetrating oil on it and let sit overnight. Put the action securely in a well padded vise, put a pipe wrench on the barrel and off it comes. You may end up having to use a cheater pipe on the wrench.This method works well on 1917 Enfields, which are just buggers to get off.Hope this helps, Russ Green.
09 December 2004, 09:06
Kory
Quote:

OK I`ll bite. What`s an action wrench ?




I was waiting for a more experienced person to answer you. An action wrench is a wrench designed to hold the action securely without damaging it while the barrel is being installed or removed (among other things).

If you look back a couple of post (the one with two images), the picture on the right is an action wrench.

Kory
09 December 2004, 10:08
hornetguy
just be forewarned.... cutting a relief cut just ahead of the action doesn't guarantee it will make it any easier.. I did that as a last resort (as it turned out, an ALMOST last resort... it didn't help) on my 09 Argentine rifle. Even tried penetrating oil, heating.... ended up clamping the action in my home-made action vise, and using a pipe wrench with a 3 foot cheater bar on it.... when the barrel broke loose, I thought I had broken the pipe wrench, judging from the metallic pop it made.... no, I wasn't trying to save the barrel.
Just remember most of the 98's have TWO bearing shoulders that the barrel should tighten against. Apparently most of the "tight" on mine was on the back shoulder, not the front of the action.
Good luck on your project...
09 December 2004, 10:41
SmallCal
Kory -

In answer to your question about the Turk Mausers, a 1938 should be a Model 98. There are, however two different versions. Those marked with K.Kale on the receiver ring are most likely a standard length mauser with a small ring barrel. If it is not marked you likely have a standard (std. 98 with large ring barrel threads) German 98 rework. Be careful of the reworks, they removed threads from the receiver to accomodate the hand guard extension (I believe). This may not leave an acceptable number of threads to secure the barrel with. If in doubt, take it to an expert before you put too much time into it.
09 December 2004, 12:49
Kory
Quote:

Kory -

In answer to your question about the Turk Mausers, a 1938 should be a Model 98. There are, however two different versions. Those marked with K.Kale on the receiver ring are most likely a standard length mauser with a small ring barrel. If it is not marked you likely have a standard (std. 98 with large ring barrel threads) German 98 rework. Be careful of the reworks, they removed threads from the receiver to accomodate the hand guard extension (I believe). This may not leave an acceptable number of threads to secure the barrel with. If in doubt, take it to an expert before you put too much time into it.



SmallCal,

I'm going to take it to my gunsmith to take of the barrel and I'll have him "once over" the action. He is building another rifle for me right now (20 VarTarg), so I'm sure he'll do it at a very reasonable cost.

Thanks for the heads-up. Much appreciate. I feel very overhelmed right now.

Regards,
Kory