I took a new (at least to me) rifle to the range yesterday. It is a custom Mauser with bottom metal of the type with the magazine release inside the trigger guard. I shot it a dozen or so times with mild loads and it shot very well with no problems. Then, with heavy bullets and max loads, while the accuracy was outstanding, the dad-gum floor plate "released". (I didn't hit it with my finger.) I then shot some more light loads, and it stayed closed... so, it is very close to working, but not quite. (BTW, the brass showed no pressure signs.)

"I guess I could get another floorplate that is about 1/32" longer, but really don't want to go that route. Can a competent gunsmith "build up" either the dothingy on the end of the plate that fits up into the trigger guard, or likewise the dooiemagig that retains it (and which you push to release the floor plate)?

I've hunted with PH's before that had the bottom of their rifles taped up... Now, I know why!

Judge
You can get a Wisner straddle floor plate and fit it to the bottom metal. Not a lot of work and have it blued to match. Or you can have the tab tig welded to extend the metal and refit it. Neither are big jobs.

What he said.

If i read your post correctly you may also be able to increase the pressure on the release with a new spring, or working with the one you have in it already. In addition to this try squiring up the catch area with a jewlers file.
Let us know what you do.

JAG

I ment squaring up the catch...Cant stay logged on to edit typoos...hmmm..??
JAG

I have one that came off of a mark x, floor plate and release. Im with Jag, on trying a stronger spring. If your interested let me know, you can have it cheap.

Thanks for the help. I forgot to add that this floor plate has some nice engraving of red deer and dogs that I like and want to keep. I guess that tig welding a short extention is the way to go if the spring isn't weakened.

I would opt for building up the release lever instead of the floor plate, It would be cheaper to replace it than having another floor plate engraved if something goes astray.

Judge---

Can you send me a picture of what you have? I can probably fix that.

If all else fails you can cut a piece of kitchen match stick to slip in the spring and make the latch a lock.

You didn't say whose bottom metal it is. One thing which I have done different. I added a domed plunger between the floorplate latch and the spring. This balances the spring tension thru out the movement of the latch. Check the hieght of the tab on the floor plate. If it is less than .075 then it will do what you explained. I machine mine to .100 and have not had any problems with up to 505 Gibbs. Also the angle on the latch vs the tab is touchy. To steep a angle and the latch will also work loose.