What's involved in swapping Remington M700 (LA) barrels.

I have an 06 and am considering changing to a 270 or 25-06. I've had great accuracy from Remington barrels and don't particularly want to go custom.

Is it a case of using the right dimension recoil lug and ignoring the writing on the barrel or...? I have a feeling most smiths won't want to be putting reamers in a factory barrel.

It can get "complicated." The barrel threads are not "timed" to the receiver threads, so a replacement takeoff factory barrel can index about anywhere. If it's drilled and tapped for sights, or if you need / want the letters to line up as per the original, it needs to be indexed, which requires machining the barrel shoulder where it mates with the recoil lug, as well as machining the rear surfaces to fit correctly,with the bolt.
It may or may not headspace correctly if just screwed on. Remington uses 3 different headspace length bolts to fit at the factory. If your current action uses one that differs from the one used to fit the "new" barrel, you will probably need to set the barrel back, or to ream the chamber deeper. I don't know of any particular objection to using a chamber reamer in the factory chamber.
Btw, Remington only uses one thickness of recoil lug, .187". If you use a thicker custom lug, you will definitely need to machine the barrel.
Maybe best to consult with your gunsmith as to the feasibility of doing all this. Considering the above, plus the pita factor, I charge the same for this job as I do to fit and chamber a new blank. Setup, measuring, cutting and reaming, all take time.
This all assumes that you already have the new takeoff barrel to fit. If you don't, maybe best to just send it to Remington and have them do the job. They don't sell just barrels to the trade.

Easy; exchange the barrels. Ignore the indexing as it won't. Check headspace with a no go gauge.. If it is too long, then fire form brass to fit; you can't use factory loads if that happens. If you sell the rifle, remove that barrel. In any case, it won't kill you.
I did replace two 30-06 barrels last year and both headspaced up fine.
Personally, I would make sure it was right; the above describes the hill billy method.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Easy; exchange the barrels. Ignore the indexing as it won't. Check headspace with a no go gauge.. If it is too long, then fire form brass to fit; you can't use factory loads if that happens. If you sell the rifle, remove that barrel. In any case, it won't kill you.
I did replace two 30-06 barrels last year and both headspaced up fine.
Personally, I would make sure it was right; the above describes the hill billy method.

I thought that I heard banjo music and smelled frying chitlins. But you forgot to lap the lugs because the headspace was to tight. I bet your wife is constantly picking up after you too, Tom.

My wife is daily yelling at me for bringing chips and wood dust into the house. Too late to fire her now.

Thanks - which Dremel attachment do I use for the lugs?

That's not funny.

Forget the factory barrel and have an E.R. Shaw barrel installed. The cost of the headache for your smith won't cost any more than a new barrel. I have one on an old model Ruger 77 that I will shoot against any factory barrel from Big Green. The smith I use charged me $125 for chambering and installation. My S-I-L put a group through one hole at 200 yds. with it. I can't shoot that tight any more because of a cataract in my right eye, but I still shoot a group that can be covered with a dime at 100 yds. with that rifle.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
That's not funny.

Well now, that could actually be VERY funny. Depending on who has to test fire it. Providing it's not me, of course.

But I'm easily amused.