The Accurate Reloading Forums
Model 700 trigger problem
24 November 2010, 00:09
Uncle AlvahModel 700 trigger problem
I'm trying to fix a "No overtravel" problem on a used Model 700 ADL, an older model.
I have adjusted any number of Model 700 triggers before, but this has me stumped.
The rifle will cock, and fire with a very light trigger, but there is NO, and I mean NO overtravel at all. You really can't even feel the trigger itself move when the gun "fires". You just apply a little pressure, and "click", no perceptible movement in the trigger.
All adjustment screws had the sealant on them, so I don't think anyone was messing with it, but thats hard to believe.
I have the overtravel screw backed out almost to the point of falling out, and the pull weight backed out a couple turns. The sear adjustment screw will turn freely about 1/4 turn, in or out, but thats about all I can get without getting too aggressive on that small screw head.
It's almost like the trigger is "frozen solid".
Thoughts/opinions MUCH appreciated!
"and he that hath no sword, let him sell his cloak and buy one"
24 November 2010, 00:44
Westpacquote:
Originally posted by Uncle Alvah:
I'm trying to fix a "No overtravel" problem on a used Model 700 ADL, an older model.
I have adjusted any number of Model 700 triggers before, but this has me stumped.
The rifle will cock, and fire with a very light trigger, but there is NO, and I mean NO overtravel at all. You really can't even feel the trigger itself move when the gun "fires". You just apply a little pressure, and "click", no perceptible movement in the trigger.
All adjustment screws had the sealant on them, so I don't think anyone was messing with it, but thats hard to believe.
I have the overtravel screw backed out almost to the point of falling out, and the pull weight backed out a couple turns. The sear adjustment screw will turn freely about 1/4 turn, in or out, but thats about all I can get without getting too aggressive on that small screw head.
It's almost like the trigger is "frozen solid".
Thoughts/opinions MUCH appreciated!
I wouldn't go any further. I would stop what I was doing and start by tearing it completely apart and giving it a thorough cleaning. You cannot reduce the pull weight very much with this trigger without first making the trigger lever and connector one piece. On the unmodified version, you need a certain amount of spring tension to keep the connector against the trigger lever. If not, unsafe things begin to happen.
_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
24 November 2010, 01:03
Uncle Alvahquote:
by tearing it completely apart and giving it a thorough cleaning.
I think that might be the deal, indeed. After applying some lube, I can get the trigger to move "quite a bit" as compared to the "frozen unit" it was. I cannot, however, get the sear engagement screw to move freely yet, the pull weight and overtravel are free. Gun won't cock now, however. I have a feeling that sear screw is going to be a bear!
"and he that hath no sword, let him sell his cloak and buy one"
24 November 2010, 02:41
WestpacYou can get it apart, and, clean without removing the sear screw. After you blow all the pieces dry, assemble the trigger, apply one (1) drop of Breakfree and blow it throughout the entire trigger assembly and out the other side... You don't need anymore lube than that.
_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
24 November 2010, 06:03
Fjoldquote:
Originally posted by Uncle Alvah:
I'm trying to fix a "No overtravel" problem on a used Model 700 ADL, an older model.
I have adjusted any number of Model 700 triggers before, but this has me stumped.
The rifle will cock, and fire with a very light trigger, but there is NO, and I mean NO overtravel at all. You really can't even feel the trigger itself move when the gun "fires". You just apply a little pressure, and "click", no perceptible movement in the trigger.
All adjustment screws had the sealant on them, so I don't think anyone was messing with it, but thats hard to believe.
I have the overtravel screw backed out almost to the point of falling out, and the pull weight backed out a couple turns. The sear adjustment screw will turn freely about 1/4 turn, in or out, but thats about all I can get without getting too aggressive on that small screw head.
It's almost like the trigger is "frozen solid".
Thoughts/opinions MUCH appreciated!
My thoughts are that it has a perfect trigger.
Frank
"I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money."
- Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953
NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite
24 November 2010, 06:28
mousegun1Get a lawyer- sue Remington- I'm sure you can find some expert testimony somewhere
24 November 2010, 21:11
Uncle AlvahI blasted the trigger out with Gun Scrubber, the trigger now moves freely, BUT the rifle won't cock. Both the pull weight and overtravel screws are turning freely, in or out, but the sear engagement screw, that needs to be backed out IIRC to increase engagement is bound. I have a small screwdriver that fits the screw slot perfectly, but it's hard to get much "piutoeus" on a screwdriver that small. At the moment, the action is standing upside down with a couple drops of Break-Free atop the screw.
I'm a patient man........
"and he that hath no sword, let him sell his cloak and buy one"
24 November 2010, 21:25
Marc_StokeldI think you need to take it to someone who is a professional gunsmith. If you want to learn about triggers, then watch him fix it. Please understand I am not trying to be insulting in th eleast. But when dealing with triggers and safeties you are messing with soemthing that could easily result in an unsafe gun that is prone to an unintional discharge
BTW-Malm (wespac) has an epoxy fix for the Remington trigger posted in another thread a couple of weeks ago. Makes a big difference in safety and repeatability of pull weight.
Or the best (IMO) option is to replace the whole trigger with a Shilen unit. I think that is the safest route and will give you an excellent hunting trigger
24 November 2010, 21:43
Uncle Alvahquote:
I am not trying to be insulting in th eleast
No insult taken. The problem, at this point, is that I cannot get the sear engagement screw to turn freely in either direction save for about 1/2 a turn. A pro gunsmith would be required if the screw had to drilled/re-taped.
My bag of tricks ain't empty yet, like I said, this ain't my first "trigger rodeo" and if I can get that screw free, I'm golden.
I have never seen or heard of any 700 trigger screw being staked......
Also, there is not a "Professional Gunsmith" anywhere around here for many many miles....pity really.....
"and he that hath no sword, let him sell his cloak and buy one"
24 November 2010, 21:50
Marc_StokeldWhere is Harnett COunty? I used to live in Waxhaw in Union County. Am going to move soemwhere in the Hayesville/Waynesville area in the Spring
24 November 2010, 22:11
Uncle AlvahHarnett County is southwest of Raleigh, Lillington is the "Big City". Kinda half way between Raleigh and Fort Bragg....
"and he that hath no sword, let him sell his cloak and buy one"
24 November 2010, 22:30
WestpacMake sure the screw driver tip is parallel (hollow ground) and fits the sear screw slot. Warm the housing around the screw with a propane torch first and then back it out, keeping firm pressure on the screw.
_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
25 November 2010, 01:22
butchlambertDon't they have mail service to your area of the country?
Butch
27 November 2010, 02:06
SR4759If the screw has been sealed with something like Loc-Tite a pointed soldering iron can break the bond enough to allow you to turn it.
29 December 2010, 02:53
Allan DeGrootleaving a loctited part in a 425degree oven overnight is usuall very effective in killing loctite
AD
If I provoke you into thinking then I've done my good deed for the day!
Those who manage to provoke themselves into other activities have only themselves to blame.
*We Band of 45-70er's*
35 year Life Member of the NRA
NRA Life Member since 1984
29 December 2010, 05:13
gzig5quote:
Originally posted by butchlambert:
Don't they have mail service to your area of the country?
Butch
???????
29 December 2010, 06:56
butchlambertgizg5,
He mentioned that he didn't know of a smith in his area. That is why I wondered if the post office came to his area.
Butch
29 December 2010, 18:53
Dans40XCHave the trigger group professionally removed,completely disassembled,cleaned,reassembled,reinstalled,adjusted,sealed.
29 December 2010, 21:04
butchlambertDan would be an excellent person to do it and his turn around time is very fast.
Butch
04 January 2011, 04:39
HuttCLEAN...CLEAN...CLEAN, such close toerances old oil and gunk will shut the mechanism down eventually.