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Adjusting a Ruger trigger

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15 August 2001, 10:21
<gundog>
Adjusting a Ruger trigger
Greetings!

I have a new (Lefty), Ruger MKII 77 stainless / laminate in 30-06 and wow is this trigger "heavy". Can anyone tell me if there is hope to adjust this trigger? If so, how? Or do I need to buy an aftermarket trigger?

Thanks.

Mark.

15 August 2001, 10:32
crowrifle
I have a Ruger MKII 77 stainless / synthetic in .308. Got frustrated with the original trigger and installed a Timney. Love it. Breaks cleanly @ 2.5 lbs.. Very easy to install.
15 August 2001, 10:56
<gundog>
Crow rifle,

Will the Timney work in a left-hand rifle?

15 August 2001, 11:20
Paul H
There's nothing wrong with the design of the trigger, in fact I quite like it, the problem is how Ruger finishes it.

There are no screws to adjust on it, but if a competent gunsmith, or hobbies carefully polishes the trigger, sear and pins, puts a lighter trigger return spring, and d/t's the trigger housing for an overtravel screw, you'll be rewarded with an outstanding trigger.

You don't need to spend the $ for an aftermarket trigger, just have a good smith tune it, the same as most any factory trigger needs a tune.

16 August 2001, 03:38
<Sniper>
I put a Timney on mine..set at 40 ounces.
16 August 2001, 05:05
GeorgeS
Mark,

Unless you know a gunsmith who is adept at stoning Ruger triggers, get an aftermarket trigger.
There is nothing more dangerous than a trigger that's been f**ked up by a inept gunsmith (or home tinkerer).

George
(a fellow lefty)

------------------
Shoot straight, shoot often, but by all means, use enough gun!

16 August 2001, 13:21
Paul H
George,

The other side of the coin is some one can f-up the gun istalling a replacement trigger. In fact, I've heard of folks doing that when installing the timneys, and having to add some clearance to the safety.

If one looks at the ruger mechanism, it is essentially the same as the timney, just doesn't have the screws to adjust it. I would have preferred not even adding the overtravel screw, as there is the possibility of it shifting and causing the gun not to fire, but thats just an application for locktite.

Anyhow, I like mechanical systems to be as simple as possible, and as such, the factory trigger is a good design. Cleaning up the surfaces with a careful stoning bears this out. I also know the new guns have a stiffer trigger return after coresponding with some owners of newer MK II's.

BTW, talked to Dirk on Monday, and said hi for you.

16 August 2001, 13:34
Max503
Check this out. It worked for me.
www.centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html

When doing this, the hard part is keeping the stone from rocking. What I did was clamp the part to be stoned in a vice with the surface to be stoned facing up. Then, lay a drill bit across the top of the vice jaws. Lay your stone so the bit acts like a roller and the stone rubs on the surface to be stoned. Then just work the stone back and forth.
This is difficult to explain w/o a picture, but it worked well for me. Took the creep out of the trigger.

[This message has been edited by Max503 (edited 08-16-2001).]

17 August 2001, 01:56
<gundog>
Thanks to all for the replies. I am not real comfortable doing the work on this trigger myself. So, I will check with some of the smiths in my area. Although finding a competent gunsmith in my area has been tough. I will use an the aftermarket trigger as a last resort. Are there any other aftermarket triggers for Ruger's besides the Timney that I should consider?

Thanks again.

Mark.