20 August 2019, 10:01
lindy2MNR's video on doing a Model 70 tang
I wonder if this can be done piecemeal on newer classic actions. Really classy work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX3OYPinG9821 August 2019, 01:54
Jim KobeDid you incorporate any draft?
Yes, but not on the mill. I've found it quicker to mill out the shape and then file in a little draft.
quote:
Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Did you incorporate any draft?
25 August 2019, 19:26
DArcy_Echols_CoSo why not set the action bolted on the block on a 5 degree block angle plate with the rear of the action inclined.
Then use 2 degree angle cutter to walk around the tang profile ?
You can't hand file draft that fast or accurately
26 August 2019, 19:45
Duane Wiebe (CG&R)That would work, but finding a 2 degree dovetail cutter is tough...Could be special ground!
I modify M70-'s ala pre war style..Like you say, a 5 degree tilt, come in on each side with a 1/2 EM..that gives me the draft at the radius Finish up with a belt sander (table tilted 2 degrees).
Most of the time is spent bolting the action to the fixture and finding the C/L
26 August 2019, 21:48
DArcy_Echols_CoThe cost to have a 2 degree cutter ground will pay for itself with the 1st tang to be re-shaped
I think the last time I had one ground it was $40
26 August 2019, 23:00
butchlambertJust talked to my tool grinder. $25 to grind a 4 flute 3/4" HSS end mill and $35 to do a solid carbide one.
That is 2deg. Modifying a dovetail cutter would work and maybe cheaper.
26 August 2019, 23:05
lindy2Does the draft make it easier to inlet the action, or to make the inletting look better, or both.
It makes it easier to not over inlet. Also if you bed that portion of the action it will make removing the action easier.
quote:
Originally posted by lindy2:
Does the draft make it easier to inlet the action, or to make the inletting look better, or both.
I'll give it a go. That does sound faster. Thank you.
quote:
Originally posted by DArcy_Echols_Co:
So why not set the action bolted on the block on a 5 degree block angle plate with the rear of the action inclined.
Then use 2 degree angle cutter to walk around the tang profile ?
You can't hand file draft that fast or accurately
27 August 2019, 17:22
DArcy_Echols_CoMatt
I've found 2 degree and 3 degree Reverse Taper cutters on Ebay ever so often. But you need to call the seller to be sure the bottom OD is larger then the waist section OD
I'd buy Carbide over HS, I've only ever found 4 flute with a 3/8 shank, but a 1/2 shank cutter would work fine I'm sure.
Tilt the bolted down action TANG UP with a 5 degree angle plate in the vise. I use a 1/2 range rod and an appropriate set of bushing to locate the centeline of the action then use the center of the sear slot for the zero on your cutter path and go to town. Use something like 5 passes to do the contour
Thanks D'Arcy! I'll check them out. I hadn't even thought about a reverse taper for the tang. I used to do it with an indexing head and a mandrel but found it too time consuming (mostly having to switch out my vise for the indexing head), hence why I opted to start putting the draft in by hand.
Similar to the range rod, I use one of those blueprinting reamers with tight fitting bushings to find center line.
quote:
Originally posted by DArcy_Echols_Co:
Matt
I've found 2 degree and 3 degree Reverse Taper cutters on Ebay ever so often. But you need to call the seller to be sure the bottom OD is larger then the waist section OD
I'd buy Carbide over HS, I've only ever found 4 flute with a 3/8 shank, but a 1/2 shank cutter would work fine I'm sure.
Tilt the bolted down action TANG UP with a 5 degree angle plate in the vise. I use a 1/2 range rod and an appropriate set of bushing to locate the centeline of the action then use the center of the sear slot for the zero on your cutter path and go to town. Use something like 5 passes to do the contour
27 August 2019, 22:42
Duane Wiebe (CG&R)Hmmm..Darcy..are you "fee handing" this cut on a Bridgeport or have a program..We all have our own way of doing things