I have a Grade C Lancaster in 450-400 3 1/4. It has been stored in the take down case for a while. I got it out the other day to list it for sale and found out it won't open. It will break apart but not open and cock the hammers. I don't want to force it and cause more damage than there already is. Could it have a broken spring? What else could prevent it from opening and cocking?

Unless it rusted to death, it just may be caked up grease. How long was it sitting around?

470fan, was the action already cocked when you put the rifle together? If so, the foreenf wood would have been hard to seat and latch. Sometime people take the rifle apart, with the cation cocked, and when the forend is forced into postion it damages the cocking levers, and jams the rifle! This i why snapcaps are so important, and if they are not available, thae action should be uncocked by snapping it with a fireing in block against the face of the action over the fireing pin holes. It could be somethig else, if the rifle wasn't left cocked, so I think I'd take the rifle to someone who works on doubles, rather than damage something! Sorry to hear this! Good luck, and let us know what you find the cause to be!

Good thoughts all.

Most likely is what 475Guy said.

Dried up lubricant/oil/grease can do this.

Onset of the problem may be noted when a double is taken out on a cold winter day for a shoot, and the cold congeals the aged lubricant. Or upon removing it from prolonged storage to try it out.

A sear may get stuck. A firing pin may get stuck in a protruded position instead of rebounding.

A burr on a firing pin may do this.

Usually it will just take cleaning and relubricating the lock mechanism, something that should be done periodically, as routine maintenance. Sometimes polishing the side of a firing pin to remove a burr is required. Hopefully nothing worse.

Of course you don't want to force it as that may bend or break or burr something even worse. This should be a routine quickie fix by a double rifle or shotgun specialist.

quote:

Originally posted by 470FAN:
It will break apart but not open and cock the hammers.

What does "break apart" mean? Do you mean you can take the barrels off when the forend is off?

When it is all put back together, it won't open? The cocking pins (whatever they aree called) or hammers are gooped up or rusted up then (?).

It's a POS and can't be fixed....you should sell it to me as scrap metal. I suppopse I could give you a couple cases of beer for it.




the chef

I was tempted to ask whether it has double triggers!

470fan- I Would be interested in buying your gun once the "problem" is rectified, Please get back to me with PM ASAP Thanks Chris

quote:

Originally posted by Will:
I was tempted to ask whether it has double triggers!

What held you back, Will?

quote:

Originally posted by Chris E Nelson:
470fan- I Would be interested in buying your gun once the "problem" is rectified, Please get back to me with PM ASAP Thanks Chris

Me too!

quote:

Originally posted by Will:

quote:

Originally posted by 470FAN:
It will break apart but not open and cock the hammers.

What does "break apart" mean? Do you mean you can take the barrels off when the forend is off?

When it is all put back together, it won't open? The cocking pins (whatever they aree called) or hammers are gooped up or rusted up then (?).

When I push the lever to open the action, the barrels will tip up about 1/8th of an inch and it feels like it's binding inside and preventing the internal hammers from cocking. I have snap caps and the firing pins are at rest. There is no pressure at all installing the forearm. And there is not a speck of rust on the gun.

What else there to say? Take the butt stock off and see what is going on.

470FAN,

Please don't start tinkering with that rifle. No offense intended, but send it to someone like JJ Parodeau at Champlins. Unless you know how to fix it, don't take it apart.
Just my opine.

Another option, a little closer to home, would be to take it to Charles Tate (or is it Dale Tate?)at Camanche Reserve near Ione, California. Tate used to work for Purdey.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
470FAN,

Please don't start tinkering with that rifle. No offense intended, but send it to someone like JJ Parodeau at Champlins. Unless you know how to fix it, don't take it apart.
Just my opine.

My thoughts exactly Rusty. I thought about taking off the bottom plate to have a look inside but I don't think I even want to do that. There is a guy in Carson City that I think works on doubles. I could deliver it there at least.

I would send it to a specialist gunsmith like JJ
as opposed to "There is a guy in Carson City that I think works on doubles."

By Grade C, can you post a picture ?
Is it a Boxlock, Sidelock,
Self Opener / Wrist Breaker mechanism ?

quote:

Originally posted by 500N:
I would send it to a specialist gunsmith like JJ
as opposed to "There is a guy in Carson City that I think works on doubles."

Of course it could turn out that the "guy in Carson City" actually does know how to work on doubles. A direct telephone conversation might help in making a decision. Here's a link:

http://www.learmes.com/

Back again to confirm that the name of the gunmaker at the Camanche Hills Hunting Preserve in Ione, California is Dale Tate, and yes he did work for Purdey. This is the same place that the engraver Charles Lee has chosen to reside as well. Here's a link:

http://www.camhills.com/

Hit the "Gunmaker" button once the web page opens.

quote:

Originally posted by Wink:

quote:

Originally posted by 500N:
I would send it to a specialist gunsmith like JJ
as opposed to "There is a guy in Carson City that I think works on doubles."

Of course it could turn out that the "guy in Carson City" actually does know how to work on doubles. A direct telephone conversation might help in making a decision. Here's a link:

http://www.learmes.com/

I have talked with Lee a few years ago about checking over this same rifle after I purchased it. I believe him to be a reputable gunsmith and he does work on doubles.

Do what you think is best, but unless the rifle is new and untouched, I do not see the point of not looking at it. I would prefer to find out
myself what the problem is. It is not like you would be performing major surgery.

The gunsmith will have to remove the pad, the stock and all the screws anyway.

I know I'm out-voted but.......

Lee LeBas IS a DR smith. He probably has more work than he can handle so whether or not you drop it off for hime to work on is probably not too significant a deal to Lee. I believe he does the USA warranty work on Krieghoffs. I know he spends most of his time in the Drieghoff botth at SCI-Reno selling their rifles for them (along with a cast of 1000's). That is where I usually meet up with him and chat a bit. He's a nice guy and a quality DR smith. DuaneB

Close it as much as possible and if all fails get a big lead hammer and knock the crap out of it.

The above is about as good advise as some have offered.

Take it to a good double gun smith before you really mess it up.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Close it as much as possible and if all fails get a big lead hammer and knock the crap out of it.

The above is about as good advise as some have offered.

Take it to a good double gun smith before you really mess it up.