RCBS sells a mold that drops 500-grain lead bullets (blivets?) for the 470 NE, likewise 480-grain bullets for the 500/465 H&H NE.

The problem is that these do not use gas checks .

What type of wadding should I place, or glue to the base of the bullet to keep it running true, and to keep the barrels clean.

I have used the .417 diameter Flat Nose Gas Checked RCBS cast bullet in a variety of .416 Rigby and Remington rifles over the years (with complete satisfaction).

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
L/D

Lawndart: I shoot 410 grain heat treated gas checked cast bullets from Cast Performance Bullet Co. out of my .470 and I believe Dr. Scott uses them, too. I can shoot them as fast as I want with no leading and they are plenty accurate (shoot a bit low though at 50 yards).

Karl

Lawndart:
Love you photo, by the way.

To cast for your calibers without gas checks: Use a hard alloy and heat treat the bullets. The easiest way to do this is to let the bullets fall from the mould in a bucket of water. Or, you can heat them in the wife's oven.

Use a soft lube so the lube is deposited in the bore to keep leading down. Many lubes, such as LBT commercial blue, are so hard you will still see it in the grease grooves when you recover the bullets from the dirt bank you shot them into. I now use a 50-50 mix of candle wax and vaseline. Beeswax is fine, but expensive, to add to the mixture of 33% each (by weight).

As to wads, one or two thick card wads between the powder and the bullet's base. You may have to work with what type of powder you shoot as a slow powder like 4831 may take up so much space it will be at the bullet's base. Perhaps a quicker powder such as RL 15. The lube on the bullet should lube the bore but you can use a wax wad between the card wads to add more lube but I don't think it will do much.

Last of all, size the bullets to the exact groove diameter or .001-2" undersize. Too big a diameter will put more lead in the bore.

Everyone has their opinion on how to cast and lube. This is what I do and the next 20 that post here will do it 20 different ways and they all work.

Cheers and good luck.
Cal

If you still get a lead build up after hard casting and heattreating, I have found that JB's Boreshine paste will remove the leading with practically zero effort. It does a fantastic job.

Lawndart,
Hear is a link to a place where you can find someone to build you aney kind of mold you can think of and gaschecks to go with it.
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php
Bill

Is that a F16 photo? I use to build them and now do Finall Assembley,test/certificaton on the F35.
Bill

Get a hold of Tom at http://accuratemolds.com/

He'll build you what you want at a great price.
Top quality too.

Wow, you guys are a wealth of help and information.

I will try that undersized and gas-checked mold, and have other GC molds made for other calibers. Then I can sell affordable practice ammunition for some of the NR calibers.

I will also "go soft" on the lube. R/L-15 is also a trick in my standard tool box.

The picture is of an F-16 "big tailed" F-16 "A" model fighter. For many years that model was the best pure dog fighter ever made. The side of the plane had my name on it, plus the plane's name "Vicious Bitch".

I wish I was young enough to fly the F-35. I have always been in love with single engine/single pilot airplanes.

Thank you for helping to build such an awesome product.

The F-16 should be in service until 2030. That is fifty years total. Incredible. My humble thanks to USAF Colonel John Boyd (RIP).

I will keep you guys posted.

Thanks again.

L/D

Lawndart:
Great info on the plane but why is your plane named after my ex?
Cheers,
Cal

Good one Cal!!