Well my .25-06 is off getting the metal work finished and that has left me with some time to refinish the stock. I've got a new recoil pad installed and and it all the wood sanded down to 220 grit. Ready to start applying the oil finish and I know it will darken the stock up some but right now when I wet the stock with alcohol it appears to be a Pecan colored stock.










Well tell me what you all think!

It will darken it up some depending on how long you leave it on.I would do it.

I've refinished and made a fair amount of rifle stocks. I've had several that were on the light side without stain. I've also decided to strip the finish back off and applied stain, as I am not fond of light colored stocks. So now, if there is a hint of being on the light side, it get's stained.
But the question should be 'how do YOU like the color'.
Some folks like a light stock. Your choice. If that was my rifle, it would get some walnut stain with a little 'English Red' in it.

I'm just kind of up in the air at the moment. I don't mind the Pecan color, but I know what a pain it will be to strip it again just to make it darker.

I have finished / refinished quite a few stocks in my time in various ways. Overtime I became sort of a purist when it comes to wood and don't use any stains unless it is absolutely necessary (like for instance blend in some sap wood). Wood colour is what it is so enjoy, to me your stock looks just fine the way it is and will likely darken with time. Your decision - it's your gun. JMHO - FWIW --- John303.

I like it.

My suggestion would be to not go too dark because you may lose some of the grain. Last time I finished a stock, I used Watco Danish finishing oil and it cam out very nice. Before that I had used linseed oil and it came out black. Also, it may darken with time so wouldn't you want to be on the light side to begin with?

Everyone has opinions and for what it's worth so do YOU !.

Like the Man said IT'S YOUR STOCK . I prefer Alcohol or solvent soluble aniline dye's as opposed to muddy

oil or pigmented stains . I also use Mohawk brand ( it's commercial and have used it for 30 plus

years and never had a single problem with ANY of their products .) http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/

If you decide to stain ( I Would as it enhances grain ) go lite because you can apply as many coats as

" YOU " see fit in order to achieve that PREFECT LOOK . Just remember ANY protective top coat regardless

of matrix will darken or greatly accentuate the Stocks color . BOL .


WATER Soluble ANILINE DYES Transparent Stain Powder
The water soluble anilines are best choice for light fastness, transparency of colour, accentuating the wood grain, ease of application, lack of lap marks and use under lacquer and other finishes. They will not leave a muddy surface. For use on new wood surfaces.
The dyes may be finished with varnish, shellac, water based finishes, lacquers, oils or wax.
Each top coat will produce a slightly different color result. Instructions with each package.
To: WATER DYE List & pricing

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ALCOHOL Wood DYE Transparent, Soluble, Penetrating
ALCOHOL soluble powder dye stains are suited for repair or refinishing on all woods
as well as coloring sap streaks and other dye requirements where quick drying is required.
Use for the tinting of Lacquer or Shellac. These dyes may be finished with varnish, shellac,
water based finishes, lacquers, oils or wax. Each top coat will produce a slightly different result in color. Instructions supplied with each package.
To: ALCOHOL DYE List & pricing

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OIL Wood DYE Transparent, Soluble, Penetrating
OIL soluble powder dye stains are a good choice for open grained woods like oak, chestnut, elm, ash, and for pine or other resinous woods. These dyes may be finished with varnish, shellac, water based finishes, lacquers, oils or wax. Each top coat will produce slightly different color result. Instructions supplied with each package.
To: OIL DYE List & pricing


ALCOHOL SOLUBLE ANILINE DYE STAIN BRINGS OUT THE BEAUTY OF WOOD GRAIN
J.E. Moser's® Aniline Dye Stain is a dry powder that is dissolved to produce a stain of exceptional clarity, color and grain accentuation:

# Normally mixed in a concentration of one ounce of stain to one quart of denatured alcohol; strain prior to use.
# Not as light fast as water soluble aniline dye stain, yet non-grain raising, quick drying and excellent for touch-up or repairs.
# To create a tinting medium, dissolve in H. Behlen™ Behkol Solvent (847-858, 847-865) before adding to shellac.
# Available in 1-, 4- and 8 oz. containers.
# Mix only what will be immediately used.
# Can be applied with brush, cloth, spray or dipping.
# Not for exterior use; for applications that receive strong direct sunlight, use a topcoat with UV additives.

I think it loos good as is. My choisce would have been to use simple old Birchwood Casey TRU-OIL gunstock finish until I had the desired color and shade. GHD PS: The rifle is in GOD'S chosen chambering so it will be fine!!

quote:

Originally posted by groundhog devastation:
PS: The rifle is in GOD'S chosen chambering so it will be fine!!

It is a fun one that is for sure!

Still don't have the rifle back but here is what the stock is looking like these days. Just trying to figure out if I want to have it checkered or not now.

I wouldn't stain it....but then, it's not my stock!

blak filler with a very ligh or no stain.

JD

Didn't stain it at all, but several coats of Minwax Antique Oil finish and sanding to a slurry till I got to 600 grit. Right now it has three coats of polyuertahne on it and sanded to 800 grit. Haven't decided if I'm going to go to 1200 or more yet. Do think I need to consider checkering it.

Some finishes are hard on the tools. Too much silica in the finish, I guess.

I like checkering. It helps with gun control in the snow and cold. It can be good looking, too.