Have you done it? Was it worth it? I want to make something along the lines of a necked-down 8x68 but of course brass is the big stumbling block.

I just got a Sherline lathe so now I don't need to spend big $$$$ to have brass modified. How about a 7mm or .308 for longe range starting with a belted magnum case?

7 STW can be a good choice if you sort your REM case ( start with 8 REM case ) to be able to clean up the neck

30.8 REM to ( same method as 7 STW )

both are closely commercial round with Redding Die

some BR caliber as 300 Baer , 300 WEA IMP ( not double radius ) can deliver very good accuracy

best is to use a shorter body lenght to allow close chambering on shoulder n, that minimize case flow and keep your case a long time

without belt and big good case is the Ultra from REM , wilcat on 300 ultra with body of the 338 ULTRA ( shorter body ) to allow long neck is very fine and easy to do with good barrel life

good shooting and don t forget to use 28 inch minimum barrel to burn all powder and not light the field

DAN TEC

Yes,

I've used my Taig to take the belt off of 375 H&H brass, and cut down the extractor groove and rim to make 350 Rigby brass. In a word, it sucks! I don't gain any magazene capacity over using a belted case. In hindsight, a 358 Norma would have done the same thing for me, but I got a deal on the dies, and a kind AR member loaned the chambering reamer.

There is nothing wrong with the belted H&H case. If you have alot of free time, and just have to try something different, go for it. Otherwise, realize there are standard cases that will allow you to achieve what you want w/o having to convert brass, or get custom reamers ground.

LDO I've cut the belt off of 300 Win mag cases and rebated the rim to make 8x68 brass and the same operation on 458 cases to make 9.3x64 cases. I'm with Paul on this one,it SUCKS! but it can be done. If you want a rimless case go right to a RUM case.