For some reason i need gettingh surface rust,what the best thing to take of with?And how do keep it off?.

Depending on the rust, if it is a tiny amount I like using very fine (like the finest you can get, a #0000 is the usual grade for it) steel wool that is soaked in oil.

Of course the problem is the rust was once part of the gun, and when it is gone there can be pits or light spots. After you have the rust all cleaned off you may want to use a cold blue, in which case you need to degrease the oil and then apply the blue according to the directions.

It sounds funny, but some steel wool makes a great applicator for some cold blues but do not be tempted to cut corners and try to hit the rust with steel wool and cold blue, do it in separate steps. It only adds a few mionutes and will give you a better finish.

In regards to keeping the guns rust free, post that one in the gunsmithing forum as there are a bunch of ways ranging from keeping them oiled every couple of weeks to keeping them in a place protected from humidity and a lot of that can depend on where you live.

#1). Figure out what you are doing wrong and CHANGE IT! The gun deserves this. Think like the pioneers. Remember the rifle and powder horn hanging over the fireplace, the big huge back ROCK wall of the building where the fire, small in summer for cooking--large in winter for cooking and heating, WAS? It also kept the gun a bit warmer and dryer than the surroundings and the "powder dry." Like a "golden rod."

#2). For surface rust my gunsmith buddy taught me a trick... wooden pencil. You can rub off "surface rust" with the graphite that is called "lead" in the pencil and then clean and polish with the pink eraser. #2's are pretty good. Now if you can find a #4 or 5 you might scratch things. And "artist" pencils might be too soft. Experiment. Cheap enough. And if you use an "ink eraser" you will scratch things.

#3). The ancient way was about any oil and BRASS WOOL, available at larger hardware stores. Steel wool works if you have very fine motor skills and if you don't you scratch things up. I don't like to take the chance with my 10 thumbs.

Many owned/USED a "tack rag." It was soaked in something... bees wax? rosin? animal fat? and the gun was held with it and after handling, rubbed down with it to remove any fingerprints. (Some, unfortunately--they cannot help it, have very harsh, acidic fingerprints and they will "print" a gun overnight. One cop would have his revolver plated, nickle over chrome??? and need this redone about every year --in Florida!)

#4). Today there are no end of products that will about dissolve surface rust beginning, I suppose, with WD 40. Some leave a rust resistant crud behind. There are spray on waxes.

Military cosomoline was 50% vasoline and 50% lanolin in one formula. Getting it off is a pain. But NO RUST.

Luck finding your way.

I have heard of stuff that removes the oxide molecule from the iron molecule, essentially turning the rust back into the steel it was before it rusted. You may have heard it referred to as naval jelly. I'd consult a gunsmith to ask if naval jelly might remove bluing...

Naval Jelly will surely remove blueing. It seems a bit extreme for "surface rust".

I have had excellent results removing LIGHT surface rust with FLITZ and a cotton ball. RIG has prevented rust for years.

I have used the pencil trick; Flitz and some other metal polishes, with varying results; as well, brass cloth and/or steel wool and oil.

(I prefer the stainless type, that is-
if you can find fine stainless steel wool anymore.
Seems all I can find now is the coarse stuff.)

The best way to keep it off is use the best corrosion protection available, Breakfree CLP and Eezox are a couple of the best, I've been using Eezox for the last 20yrs or so, it works, Breakfree CLP works almost as good from the tests and is a lot easier to find, I've been getting Eezox from Midway.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html