I have just been punching a patch through the point of the jag, This does not give the ability to "scrub" or "short stroke" the patch. I know that some use under sized jags and that there is a Parker Hale jag that is designed for wrapping the patch.

How do you keep the patch in place to start it when using a bore guide?

JR., when I go that route, I simply wrap the patch around the (parker hale style) jag, and run it through the bore guide, put whatever I want on the patch when it's in the solvent port of the bore guide, and get on with it.

Good Luck--Don

It envision myself fighting to keep it from unwrapping on the way in.
I will get one to try anyway.

Thanks!

Hey Jr., I use the real strong "Paper" Shop Towels and they tend to stay "formed" around the Jag. You can get Blue ones about anywhere, but then you can't see the Blue Copper Residue. White ones are available at Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc.

I also grind the Pointed Tip off of the Jag since it tends to start a Tear in Paper. The Tip is there so when using Cotton Patching, the Patch won't slip sideways.

I use an undersize Jag with the Paper Patches. I use a 22cal Jag in the 24cal and 27cal Bores, etc. I still use the 22cal Jag in my 22cal rifles, but I can only get one small layer of Paper Patch on it. With the other Calibers, I fold the Paper Patches once or twice to make them a snug fit down the Bore.

And when you initially wrap the Paper Patch around the Jag, a tight Grip will cause it to hold most of the Pre-Forming. That makes it easy to get started into the Bore. If it feels a bit loose once you have it inside the Bore, place one more layer of Paper Towel over what you are using and that will tighten it right up.

You will notice when you remove it from the Bore that the paper Patches retain their shape really well. That is due to the natural structure of the Paper.

I've not found any Paper Towels normally used in the home to be as tough as the Shop Towels.

Best of luck to you.

Thanks!

I'll give it a shot!

Rotate the jag as you push it in. I use P/H type jags with normal patches and never had one come off. Although the smaller ones tend to try to open up quicker, they will still stay wrapped around.

I'v found sometimes if I use a patch that is too big (tight!) for the bore, place the patch so it overhangs the front of the jag and then wrap it as usual, then twist the overhanging part into a sharp point.

Regards,
Jim

I buy patches that are 2 1/4" wide that are made for .38 to .45 caliber / 20 to 410 gauge. I then wrap the patch around a brass brush which is also.....you guessed it.....2 1/4" long . The brush will give a little but it will be a tight fit. A few of the brass bristles poke through the patch but that is only good.

You can't do it with any caliber below .264 cause it will be too tight. Not enough room for the bristles to give a little.

Just be sure and pick all the cotton threads out of the bristles or it will get clogged up. Brass brushes are cheap but just buy some new ones every once in a while.

Patch it, take the patch off and brush it a couple of time and then patch it again.

Course, it's kind of a gimmick so HC probably won't like it much. Might have guessed that he was using some household item like "paper towels". He fires every shot through a perfectly clean barrel anyway so he's a little strange.

quote:

He fires every shot through a perfectly clean barrel anyway

Doesn't everyone???

I wrap the patch around a nylon brush.

Dave

I never use a bore guide with a parker-hale jag and wrap as the very tightness of it when it enters the rifling will centre it all up.

Some people used a rod with a hollow round tapered plug. This was wooden and was designed to "stick" in rear receiver ring on the boltway. This stayed always on the rod. The jag and wrap was screwed on and entered into the bolt way. The wooden plug pushed up into the rear receiver ring and the cleaning begun.

The other trick is never to let the jag exit the muzzle by more than its tip 1/2".