OK folks I don't know what else to try. I used almost half a can of CLP and a whole bag of patches. I can't get all the fouling out. Bronze brushes aren't breaking it free at the area just in front of the chamber. Will it hurt the barrel to soak it overnight in some sort of solvent? Hoppes or nitro solv?

I use the Outers Foul Out System. It's awesome with lead. Plug it in, and all the lead will be out within a half hour:

http://www.midwayusa.com/produ...bore-cleaning-system

WipeOut will work if you're not in a hurry, will take a couple days, then it will push out with a tight patched jag, been there done it with a badly fouled muzzleloader barrel after shooting hot loads of 777 and lead conicals.

http://www.sharpshootr.com/wipeout.htm

quote:

SPECIAL NOTE FOR ALL SHOOTERS SHOOTING LEAD BULLETS.

We specifically state that Wipe-out does not dissolve lead. Most chemicals that dissolve lead produce a galvanic reaction. This reaction in effect acts like a battery. In most cases it will etch steel ( both stainless and carbon steel). It is for this reason that we don't use chemicals that specifically work on lead.

We use chemicals that will dissolve the other metals ( tin , antimony, zinc, etc.) that are incorporated in most bullet alloys. So we work to destroy the integrity of the bullet alloy, and it begins to come apart in small black flakes. This process takes about 24 to 36 hours.

So while Wipe-Out™ does not dissolve lead , it will degrade the alloy so that it can be pushed out with a tight patch.

I shoot pretty much all cast bullets in my pistols Rb 17 works very well if I don't have that around plugged the chamber end with a cork and fill the barrell with half hydrogen peroxide and half white vinegar leave in barrel no longer than 10-12 mins will turn the lead to lead oxide all you have to do is swab put the barrel than nutralize it with some denatured alcohol than your favorite oil of the month
good luck

I shoot alot of lead bullets in my 45 acp. Years ago a fellow gun club member gave me a tip that works wonders. Go to your local super market and buy a pack of "Chore Boy" pot scrubbing pads. They should be right there with the Brillo pads. Get the one made from copper/bronze and cut open the pad and wrap the chore boy around a bronze brush. Dip it in some solvent and run it through your barrel. You'll be amazed at how fast it removes the lead fouling. I have a Lewis lead remover that hasn't been used since I learned this trick.

Try buying the Lewis Lead Remover. You buy it for the caliber you need to clean.
If you get your lead bullets in the correct diameter for your firearm leading will cease to be an issue.

Jim

Thanks for the great info everyone!

1++++ on the chore boy but make sure it's the ALL copper one Clint

I bought some of the Chore boy scrubbers. AWESOME!! In a few minutes my bore was as clean as the day I bought it. Thanks!

Medic you got some of the best advice in the world. You didn't say what type of gun, semi-autos are one thing, revolvers have their own issues, but I wanted to point out one thing that you may already know, that fit is king. If you haven't already, slug your bore and size your bullets .001-.002" over groove size. This will solve most of your leading problem. Goat

Just finished doing some lead removal tonight. After a fair amount of lead bullets through my Ruger Colt 45, the cartridges weren't feeding into the cylinders quite as well as they used to. Having some trouble closing the gate, actually. This despite the revolvers being really, really clean.

So, I bought a 480/50 cal bronze pistol brush and put that in my electric drill. Used some lead remover and the brush, and in under 5 minutes had cleaned out the cylinders in both of my revolvers. Now they're completely de-leaded.

Will try Chore Boy in my Colt Gold Cup. sounds like a winner.

As Goatwhiskers said, slug your bore and use bullets .001 to .002 over that diameter. I shoot cast lead in two 9mm's, two .45's, three .44 mags, and one .357. None of them experience lead deposits in the barrel. Yeah, it's a bit of a hassel since I have to size some 9's to .356 and some to .358, and a couple of different diameters for the .44's. Fortunately both .45's handle .452.

Slugging is easy. Just get some egg fishing sinkers that are slightly over bore diameter and drive them through the barrel using a wooden dowel rod and non-metal hammer. If the sinkers are way too big they can easily be filed down. Then mike the slug to see how much to size the bullets. Any machine shop can mike them if you don't have one. This only works, of course, if you're casting you own. If you don't cast try to find someone who does and will custom size for you. It may cost a little more but it makes it a lot easier to clean the barrel.

Hoppes makes their version of the Lewis Lead Remover. Both work great and fast and you don't have to deal with any dangerous chemicals.

The guys who make Wipe Out make a product specifically for removing lead.


http://www.sharpshootr.com/no-lead.htm



Haven't used the above but every other product I have used works great so I have no doubt this stuff will work as intended.

.

505G,
I just got a shipment in from shar shooter and on the invoice, they noted that their lead remover was not available.
I've also had great success with JB's boreshine on a patch/jag. effortless lead removal.

+1 on the lewis lead remover. No good for copper, though, but then it isn't called the Lewis Copper Remover, is it?

I cut patches out of the Beechwood Casey lead remover and polishing cloths and use them on a jag. Cleans the lead right out. Don't know how it does it but the lead just flakes right out. No fuss no muss.