Thanks guys I appreciate the info.
Rich Jake

Hey guys !

I'm thinking of getting into this caliber. What type of dies are needed and what brand do you recommend?

I plan on buying new .223 brass, full-length sizing once, fire-forming and then just neck sizing (and trim-to-length) after the initial fire-forming.

Am I on the right track? There's a couple manufacturers that make dies for this cal. What has been your experience?

Thanks.

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-Dino
IHMSA #56176
A man said to the universe: "Sir, I exist!" "However," replied the universe, "That fact has not created in me a sense of obligation." - Stephen Crane

Dino
I'm only starting with the 7TCU but I have bought Hornady dies for about $25.00 at Midsouth shooters supply. So far I've only expanded the necks of R-P brass with these dies but worked well so far. I haven't gone any further since I don't have the barrel yet. Can't wait to fireform them.
Rich Jake

I use an old set of Lee 7tcu dies I have had for years and they do a good job expanding the necks. I use Wilson neck sizing and seating dies for loading. I have a Redding body die if I feel the cases need FL sizing. I'm not a great fan of expander balls. On other cases I reload I use lee collet dies and redding body dies and think its a great way to reload.

I'm in agreement with tommyn about dies. I went the way of Redding's bushing dies where you can buy a bushing EXACTLY the size to meet the needs of your brass. This minimizes the working of the case neck and results in much longer life. I also really like the Forrester benchrest style seater die as I think it is very important to align the bullet during the seating process.

I was having some really good results with the following load...

Winchester brass
CCI Small Rifle Primer
Sierra 120gr SP
27.5gr WW748

I don't know what it was doing on paper, but it was a heck of a Standing round from my 10" Contender for silhouettes.

Dino,youmight want to look at some of the dies with the tapered expander. After fire forming I neck size only, and then it is only.130. Don't be afraid of the LC brass. I have some LC "90" match brass that is on #18 reload. Just make sure to anneal the necksand you shpuld be ok. As for factory brass I also like the WW, I have had problems with the necks with Federal Gold Medal and Rem.
As for the fire forming, I would not load up a bunch of lower end loads, and find out that they don't form the shoulder completely. Start with a minimum load (5 rounds) and work up till the shoulder is FULLY formed. When you do this make sure to use brass that you have not tried to fire form previously ( a new 5 round batch). My 6 TCU is real picky on brass and forming loads. Once you find a good forming load it should be as accurate as formed brass with the same load. This has worked for me. Just don't get in a big hurry. This is an excellent round if you take your time through the fitst few steps. You have plenty of help and info here. For the most part all good. I have heard and seen too many people complain about this round, when actually it will shoot better than they can. I just bought three barrels (all TCU chambering) for the reasonable amount of $200. The suppousidly would not shoot and were worn out. Ever seen a 14" octagon 7 TCU? Pretty neat looking even if it is worn out.
Here is question for some of you guy's and maybe you have had a barrel the same way. I had an early 7TCU barrel that would shoot the fireforming loads better (MOA) then a formed case. The barrel is long gone, but any ideas? I talked to a fellow last weekend with the same happenings.
Jeff

I'm only loading for two wildcats now and both of them seem to shoot fireforming loads with great accuracy. 223AI and 7TCU. I think most dies for 7TCU have tapered expander balls. I'm on my third 7TCU barrel and they all have been well under MOA in fact under 1/2 inch groups have been the norm. I had planned to shoot this weekend but rain in the forcast all weekend.