24 August 2013, 00:38
jbok.380 Pistol Accuracy load data suggestions:
Just ordered dies and plan to start reloading .380. I an going to use Berry 95 grain FMJ bullet. Any suggestions for powder and grains of what is working well for you in your .380. It is for a LCP so don't need +P data. Thanks Jim
24 August 2013, 01:35
DoublessTry 3.5 grains of Unique and work up slowly, or 4.5 grains of Accurate Arms #5 as a top load. AA #5 is what I shoot in my Baikals behind a 100-grain LRN, and they are spookily accurate. AA #5 is about one grain slower than Unique, based on information from an AA ballistician many years ago.
18 December 2013, 05:49
oldsoldier97I agree with Doubless on the 3.5 Unique and work up, I've had best accuracy just above that point, anther load you might try that I have had my best accuracy with is Precision Bullets 115gr "Black" bullet over Unique, start at 3.0 and work up slowly in my Bersa Thunder 3.2 grains is as accurate as she will shoot..
14 January 2014, 06:22
grandpa1466I stumbled across a load that has been very accurate in my Taurus TCP, which is similar to what you are shooting. It is a 95 grain coated LRN from SNS Casting over 2.2 grains of IMR 700X. It is a fairly light load but shoots bulls eyes at 15 yards in my little TCP. That said, a friend of mine tried them in his Bersa CC 380, and they didn't work as well for him.
14 January 2014, 22:44
PaulS3.0 to 3.4 grains of W231 or HP-38 is as good as it gets. You should start with the lower charge and work up to the maximum in your gun. If you are after just target or plinking rounds load down from the lowest listed load to find a load that consistently works the action and provides the accuracy that you need.
Adding mine.
I have had cycling issues with very short barrel auto mouse guns. I've found faster burning powders to work better in these.
My current favorite practice load is 3.2 gr Bullseye, 100 gr Berry round nose flat point, Federal primer, .960-.965 OAL. Mixed brass.
Easy on the crimp to try and keep from cutting the plating. I shoot a lot suppressed and this is an important issue with suppressors. I'll pull a dummy round to check and see if there is just a hint of a dent in the plated bullet (have to look close to see it). I'll then push a loaded round, bullet end first, into the wood part of my bench with my fingers to make sure the bullet doesn't slide back into the case.
This load even works every time in my picky P380 Kahr.