Marlin 1895 bolt setback with warm loads?

03 September 2003, 06:31

Most people who handload for the Marlin 1895 use charges that exceed the velocities of factory-ammo loads by a wide margin. This is not unsafe, because the Marlin 1895 can handle peak pressures up to at least 40,000 CUP (and factory loads produce peak pressures of only about 28000 CUP). Many of you have been using loads near the upper end of that pressure limit for some time. However, even though the rifle will not experience a sudden structural failure with these loads, I would like to know whether those of you who have been loading this way for a long time (say, thousands of rounds) have noticed any bolt compression or setback in your rifles.

03 September 2003, 15:04

475Guy

Back in the late 70's, when Marlin first came out with their first new 45-70, I bought one and proceeded to shoot lots of factory rounds to familiarize myself with it. Then, after shooting it for a while, my shooting buddy got me into the gorilla loads both 400 and 500 grain bullets. The 400's chrono'd @ ~1900 f/s and the 500's @ ~1600 f/s. Damn did they kick. I put it away for a while and decided to convert it to 475 JDJ. The guys over at JD's place then asked what I was shooting in it. It seems that the locking mortises and the bolt were badly peened and had to be rebuilt before rebarrelling. I shot some 3000 handloads all at full steam and now I know what happens with a steady diet of max loads. Sorry for being so long winded. [Eek!]

03 September 2003, 16:29

Mingbogo

quote:
Originally posted by 475Guy:
Back in the late 70's, when Marlin first came out with their first new 45-70, I bought one and proceeded to shoot lots of factory rounds to familiarize myself with it. Then, after shooting it for a while, my shooting buddy got me into the gorilla loads both 400 and 500 grain bullets. The 400's chrono'd @ ~1900 f/s and the 500's @ ~1600 f/s. Damn did they kick. I put it away for a while and decided to convert it to 475 JDJ. The guys over at JD's place then asked what I was shooting in it. It seems that the locking mortises and the bolt were badly peened and had to be rebuilt before rebarrelling. I shot some 3000 handloads all at full steam and now I know what happens with a steady diet of max loads. Sorry for being so long winded.

You must be ahead of time shooting a 45-70 with a 400-grain projectile at 1900 fps back in the 70s. I would assume that the magnum capability of the 45-70 was not wildly realized back then, especially with a Marlin lever gun. Please take this as a compliment. [Smile]

Thanks.

04 September 2003, 01:50

475Guy

Naa-I was just a young gunfreak at the time. I grew up reading ALL of Elmer Keith and Jeff Cooper's articles and columns and memorized them. Got the reloading data from Elmer Keith's articles. If you research his stuff, you'll find that he used copious quantities of powder in all his guns. [Cool]

04 September 2003, 06:43

BigBrass

475Guy: Thanks, your post was interesting.

I know that there are others of you who have been shooting loads in this velocity range for a long time. Have any of you pulled the bolt out of your rifles and looked closely to see whether the mortises or lugs are peened or set back as a result of long term use of these loads?

04 September 2003, 11:06

CapeBuff

BigBrass...

I asked this same question (pretty much) on the Marlin Board. Jackfish replied with the fact that he's been doing it for many a year with no adverse affects. He's known for his firearms savy so I would tend towards his feelings on the matter!

04 September 2003, 12:44

475Guy

On my Guide Gun, after approximately 2500 rounds, the bolt seems to be holding up but the mortises in the frame are not as sharp as when brand new. All it takes is a proper screwdriver to take only one screw to pull out the bolt. [Cool]

05 September 2003, 11:31

CapeBuff

475...

Where are the mortises?

05 September 2003, 15:33

475Guy

Dude, these are the locking cuts inside the frame. When you disassamble your rifle and take the bolt out, you can see the machine cuts inside. Sometimes it is rough and other times, they are smooth. If you are handy with tools, you can take it all apart and get a clearer picture. Just get a schematic and read ALL THE DIRECTIONS FIRST. [Cool]