Has anyone done it?

I've got a sealed rimfire can I want to clean, and the manufacturer will do it, but it results in downgraded performance 9they install a monocore instead of the original 'K' baffles).

George

on sealed cans- (esp rimfire)
if the can is truly gunky-

and if the can is titanium or steel(no aluminum)
i typically plug the small end
fill it or nearly so with a carbon solvent (like non-chlorinated brake cleaner)shake it up and let it sit
in an outside shed then decant, pressure air dry,
then dunk/cook in the ultrasonic tank, then pressure/air dry again

only do this infrequently
as you can ultrasound off some cerakote
then fill with CRC,Kroil or other anti-corrosion oil , let it sit, the drip dry, then
pressure air dry,
then put away

when i made my own cans (yes legally), made them disassemblable

Thanks, but this can is aluminum.

George

you can do all the above minus the ultrasonic , it works fairly well

as to opening a sealed aluminum can and "re-welding it"

i'd need better skills and eyes than i currently possess

if the serial and other label marks are on the side of the can-- you could convert it to an eternally threaded end cap (could ever be a steel cap)

would take a bit of fabrication

I'm told the end cap on this can is Loc-tited then cerakoted, not welded.

George

Loc-tite ,
I believe takes a nitro-methane based solvent, (they sell one -- terribly expensive, due to that I have never bought it)

We have always used heat, either a soldering iron or torch to break loc-tite

My thought having not seen the can-

thread it on to a 1/2-28 rod (as a heat sink--maybe copper, etc)
find a non-injurious method to hold on to the body
apply heat to the base and lift/turn/pull the body free (if threaded base of tube -unthread)
red takes about 550, green and blue around 400

Black (industrial) (no longer publicly sold as best I know---pretty much forget it