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max load White muzzleloader

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18 December 2008, 23:22
Dusky
max load White muzzleloader
I have inheritied a White "white lightning". I have no paperwork. Does anyone have knowledge of loading data for this rifle? I know some folks have used 150 gr. of pyrodex, in other rifles, but this ssems like overkill for whitetails in NJ woods.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
19 December 2008, 08:21
Underclocked
http://whitemuzzleloading.com/...nstructionManual.htm

Poor resolution but your answer is at the bottom of page 4.

It says max load for a .50 caliber (.504) is 150 grains of loose black FFg or Pyrodex RS or P powders. The same powders for a .45 are limited to 125 grains.

TripleSeven and BlackMag3 were not covered in that manual but should be reduced from those limits by a good 15%.

Doc recommends starting at 80 grains of one of those recommended powders - I would recommend 65 grains in the Lightning. The rifles were all designed primarily for the use of full bore conicals but will shoot sabot'd rounds just fine.

Do not mess with BH209 in that Lightning.

A concern with the Lightnings is breaking of the stock in the pistol grip section. A reinforcing rod or dowel can be installed at that point to help prevent such event.


WHUT?
19 December 2008, 08:24
Blank
My suggestion is to shoot somewhere between 80 and 100 grains of Pyrodex "P", or 777. You should be able to find a very accurate load in that range, that will take anything you ever want to hunt. What bullet are you trying to use for hunting? My friend has several Lightning's and they shoot fine. As for maximum, 120 gr Pyro "P" and a 600 grain bullet in my Whitetail kick like the Hammer of Thor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
19 December 2008, 18:16
Dusky
My bullet is a Thompson Center 300 gr. polymer tip. I will, at your suggestion, start with 90 grs. and work up to 100 grs. to see which is most accurate.

Thanks for your help, I'll keep you posted.

Are these good rifles?
19 December 2008, 20:11
MLKeith
I would start at 80gr. not 90. There should be no reason to use 100gr. unless you are planning on shooting over 150yards and at elk. Deer are not that big and the extra kick from 300gr. bullet and 100gr. Pyrodex will possibly damage the stock on the Lightning (as mentioned they were prone to cracking). The Lightining was the least expensive rifle White ever made. They sold for $299. It is also the lowest volume rifle they ever made. They are known to be extremely accurate but not necessary to shoot such heavy loads. If you are trying to shoot longer distance possibly reducing the weight of the bullet would accomplish the same thing and give you less recoil at the same time.
20 December 2008, 08:36
Underclocked
Yes on the good rifles question. But reinforcing that stock is fairly simple and worth doing. Another point of concern on any of the G-series and Lightnings is bending of the recoil lug after repeated heavy loads. A good bedding job will take care of that.

You can get replacement #11 nipples from Tom Lodge via SunriseArchery.com - just click on one of the email buttons.


WHUT?
04 January 2009, 19:25
Dusky
Tried the Lighting yesterday. It does not like 90 gr., but seems to like 80 gr. quite well. However, the accuracy is what what I want (4in.@50 yds.) I wonder if anyone has a favorite load for this rifle that I might use. Maybe the bullet needs to change, perhaps a power belt would work.

Thanks
05 January 2009, 04:18
Doubless
Try 100 grain equivalent of 3F T7 and your choice of projectile, but do the stock repair first, like Underclocked suggested.

My Lightning has held 2" groups at 100 yards with that load and my own 625-grain SAECO bullet. I would hasten to add, however, that recoil from said load is not for the faint of heart!

Good luck working with the rifle. It will shoot; I guarantee it. You just have to find its pet load.
05 January 2009, 05:01
Dusky
Please explain streghtening the stock with the dowell...where does the dowell go, sise to side, or top to bottom?
05 January 2009, 10:22
MLKeith
I have seen the repair in detail somewhere. Maybe on the DWB site. I will see if I can find it. Maybe someone else has a link.
05 January 2009, 10:24
MLKeith
If I remember correctly it is straight up the pistol grip from the cap area at the lower end and runs toward the rear of the action.
06 January 2009, 03:58
MLKeith
PM sent about repair photos. The repair is a 1/4 inch hole drilled from the inside of the stock straight down through the pistol grip all the way to the cap and filled with epoxy and either hardwood dowel or steel rod. Important to drill in center of the body of the grip accurately.
06 January 2009, 08:38
Underclocked
Not quite all the way, Keith, there is no end cap on that rifle so far as I know.

How easily do those sabot/bullets load in that barrel? If too easily, you may need a thicker sabot to attain good accuracy.

Take a look at this pic http://s4.tinypic.com/sg1kyw.jpg and you can see the differences in several different sabots.


WHUT?
27 January 2009, 23:01
Dusky
quote:
Originally posted by Underclocked:
Not quite all the way, Keith, there is no end cap on that rifle so far as I know.

How easily do those sabot/bullets load in that barrel? If too easily, you may need a thicker sabot to attain good accuracy.

Take a look at this pic http://s4.tinypic.com/sg1kyw.jpg and you can see the differences in several different sabots.


"Doc" White suggested the HArvester ribbed sabots with 300 gr. bullet. Will try at earliest convience.