......just curious.....are there any strength differences between a Carl Gustav and a Husqvarna M96 Mauser ??

Roger

I'm no expert on all things Mauser but I do have one of each. An original m96 Carl Gustav and a sporterized Kimber Husqvarna m96. Other then the nicer finish on the Carl Gustav I doubt there is any difference in strength between them.

I think that the later actions might be stronger. I've rebarreled several 1942/43 vintage Husqvarna M38 actions for higher pressure cartridges; 22-250, 243, 6mm, 257 Roberts, 260, 7mm-08, and 308.

When I build on a Swedish SR Mauser I ALWAYS replace the original bolt shrouds with commercial style bolt shrouds from Brownells or MidwayUSA, as the commercial style bolt shrouds have larger gas shields and gas handling, rather than strength, is (IMO) the most significant safety factor when dealing with the SR pre-1898 style Mausers. I also make this change on commercial Husqvarna 640s that were built on the "strengthened" SR 1896 style actions.

Thanks for the input, I have 3 '96 6.5x55 Swedes,one of them an improved version, one a full stock carbine and I would like to re-barrel or re-chamber the third to something "interesting".......any suggestions ??

Roger

If your full length stock Swede is original, as in M94 military, may I suggest you leave it as is. These are worth quite a bit more than the M96, or M38/96, or M38 rifles.

Certainly nothing you could measure; so I assume no difference in any of them. Ask the Swedes; those guys use them for everything; calibers we would not use on them.

#1). Obviously, the pre 98's do not handle escaped gas as well, so all the books say and then recommend a 98... I have nothing against Swede manufacturing but this is a thought. The aftermarket gas shield helps...
#2). De Haas had a standard for Mauser bolt actions. If pre 1930, at least 1920, then restrict it to the earlier, lower pressure cartridges. 7 Mauser. 8 Mauser. .257. .250 Savage. ETC. Only the later guns should be used with the hotter, new cartridges. .308 family, etc. I am no one to argue.
ERGO: If your gun is a Gusty, it might have been made for WW I with earlier steel. If a 96/38 Husky or Gusty marked for WW II, then it will be newer steel. Proof year can sometimes be found on the receiver under the barrel ring with the wood off.
Great guns. As is, rivals the .270 WCF almost. Usually a very good bore. ENJOY. Happy trails.