Does anyone have experience free floating this particular rifle? Weahterby puts two nodules to keep upward pressure on the barrel supposedly to prevent whipping. However after a few shots and the barrel heats up, there goes the consistency...I'm considering free floating it and see if that helps...Makes it difficult to work up reloads...

I would take the out one at a time. Each rifle is different but most like the pressure points removed.

I've never heard of a factory "pressure bedding" their stock rifles on purpose.

This is interesting. Did Weatherby tell you they did this?

If the barrel is too whippy after you free float it, I'd cut an inch off the barrel and recrown it.

Oh yes...all the veteran shooters couldn't believe it. First time at the range they slid the dollar bill down the barrel and opps it stuck. Problem is that as the barrel heats up it expands...duh.

quote:

Originally posted by TheBigGuy:
I've never heard of a factory "pressure bedding" their stock rifles on purpose.

This is interesting. Did Weatherby tell you they did this?

If the barrel is too whippy after you free float it, I'd cut an inch off the barrel and recrown it.

Remington uses two bumps at the fore-end on their composite stocks to provide pressure. Weatherby's is similar. With the 270WSM and a magnum contour barrel, three shots is about all you will get before the barrel is too hot, regardless if it is free floated or not. I would just make sure that there isn't any contact between the stock and the barrel other than at the fore-end. Slowly shoot some groups, and go from there.

As far as working up loads, it is beneficial to have the barrel as close to ambient temperature as possible for each shot. A hot barrel and, more importantly, a hot chamber will mess with pressure and velocity.

Most mfrs pressure bed their hunting rifles. Putting a cardboard shim under the front of the action will allow you to simulate the gun's performance free-floated.