Thinking of rebarreling a 270 that never gets out of the safe to 280AI. Good Idea? What barrel manufacturer?

Why doesn't the .270 make it out of the safe? What are you looking to do with this rifle if you rebarrel it? Will you use it if you change the caliber or will you still choose the current rifle that you use the most?

I like the .270 and don't really see the .280 AI as much of an improvement. Don't get me wrong I think the .280 is a good cartridge but the AI thing you either like or don't. I don't see much reason to AI a cartridge like the .280, and I don't want to mess with fire forming brass and buying more expensive dies to reload with.

As far as barrel makers go I'd just probably send the barreled action off to Pac-Nor to get all the work done. Other than that just search the gunsmithing forum for suggestions on barrel makers.

Just wanting a new toy. I've got another 270 that I shoot alot more often.

my 280AI has a 26" lilja. #5 countour, 1-9twist. shoots 168gr SMKs and 162 A-Maxs.

you can buy nosler brass thats pretty much ready to go.

I dont really like the 270 anyway, but my ballistics are better than a 270WSM

Lilja 1-9 also, 25" long. Awesome!
Nosler brass--Fantastic!

I'm a 270 nut, but get a little heavier bullet to similar or slightly higher velocities with the 280AI, great cartridge, but there isn't much difference in the 280, so consider that-- I just like the steep shoulder on the AI's, in my mind it contributes to 'inherent accuracy'....it happens to show on the target face with my two 280AI's as well.

Paying a lot of cash to gain nothing...

Remington 700 280 AI, action blueprinted, Tubb Recoil Lug, Hart #5 24" fluted, pillar bedded in LSS stock.

She shoots the 160 gr AB at 3019 fps.

JD338

JD338, it must be an illusion, your barrel looks longer than 24" Lou

I did the same thing to a 270 Sako 75 a couple of years ago. Sent the whole rifle off to Hart for a 26" stainless 1 in 8 Sako contour barrel. I sent an unprimed case with a bullet seated to where I wanted the lands. They hit it perfect and put a .313" neck.




It is a very consistant and good shooter


but you will probably have to deal with the do-nuts after a few firings in order to maintain accuracy


If you decide to get a barrel and send it to a gunsmith and don't have one already, then I can recommend a poster here who does excellent work, PM him, he posts as westpac.

As far as barrels

Krieger
Lilja
Barlein
Shilen
Brux
Douglas
PacNor

quote:

Dr. Lou

It must be the camera, adds a couple extra pounds/inches.

Its a 24" #5 fluted Hart barrel.

JD338

Thinking about doing the same Idea w/ the 280 ai, but using a savage action. I am really impressed with the shaw barrel on my precision rifle.

quote:

Originally posted by JD338:
Remington 700 280 AI, action blueprinted, Tubb Recoil Lug, Hart #5 24" fluted, pillar bedded in LSS stock.

She shoots the 160 gr AB at 3019 fps.

JD338

Nice looking gun and she shoots!

I have a 280AI reamer by JGS.......just need to have the barrel made

I've got a blueprinted Rem 700 in an HS Precision stock, 26" bbl in .280 AI. It gets maybe all of 125+ fps over a std .280 Rem.

Is it a USELESS undertaking? NOT if YOU wish to do it!! 50% of the calibers out there are useless by extension. 90% of us could simply buy a .30-06 and get by just fine. How BORING would THAT be??? DO IT!!

Have a .257 Roberts AI too.


FN in MT

Woods..
What do you mean by do-nuts?

I'm currently chambering mine in a Shilen #2 contour for a 1909 Argentine.

quote:

Originally posted by leoparddog:
Woods..
What do you mean by do-nuts?

When you get a tight necked custom chamber you will want to neck turn your brass to a certain thickness so that you have the minimum clearance around the neck between the neck brass and chamber neck, usually .003". When you have this minimal clearance the brass flow forward when firing the case will push a ridge right at the junction where the shoulder meets the neck.

It is impossible to measure and the only way to tell if you have do-nuts is to insert a bullet into a fired and unsized case, the bullet will stop when the bullet hits the do-nut, this is as far as the bullet will go into this case


I suspect most if not all cases develop do-nuts but they do not become a factor unless you have that minimal neck clearance. For instance in a typical factory chamber if you have .006" or greater clearance between a loaded round neck and the chamber then the do-nut might be there but it does not hit the bullet and is undetectable and does not create a problem. If however, you have a do-nut that hits the bullet then it effectively is a rear crimp on the bullet and is probably not uniform all the way around, causing problems.

Getting rid of it is a whole different problem.

quote:

Originally posted by JD338:

quote:

Dr. Lou

It must be the camera, adds a couple extra pounds/inches.

Its a 24" #5 fluted Hart barrel.

JD338

Thanks! I bet a lot of guys are going to want to know what kind of camera you use to make your barrel look a couple inches longer.

Wood,

Have you shot the Accubond on Elk?

My .270 does not shoot 140 TSX accurately.

I have decided to try the 140 Accubond.

Since we're showing pics of 280 Ackleys, here's mine:





140 Gr Accubond

Handsome rig Pre-War! Was the Accubond recovered from that buck? I've never had but one bullet stop in an animal, I always like to see those pics....The accubond has been awesome for me, highly accurate and fantastic terminal perfromance IME.

I've got a 280 AI Cooper model 57, and the Accubonds and TTSX's both shoot great out of it!

I've never enjoyed a project more than my 280A.I.

Thanks, the bullet was recovered from the deer pictured. It was about 120 yards through the shoulder and lodged in the offside skin/shoulder. Muzzle velocity was around 3000. My rifle is a Rem 700 was a new bolt handle, 3 position safety, Dakota bottom metal, and reshaped tang by Ed LaPour. It's a shooter.

Prewar70, do you remember the color mix on the stock?

Looks good!

Sorry I don't. I remember looking at McMillan's catalog when I ordered it years ago and there was one that looked similar so I said that one but with a little more green. If you send them a picture they can match it pretty close.

Just received this one



olive with black and woodland beige

I have one ordered that is black/olive/med. brown and need to get in line for another. Maybe just black and forest green...too many choices and they are too expensive to blindly experiment with.

What have guys found the best powder with 175's?

And what sort of velocity are you getting?