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Elmer Keith, The 44 Mag and Alloy

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23 February 2008, 03:17
Me_Plat
Elmer Keith, The 44 Mag and Alloy
Does anyone know what kind of alloy Mr. Keith used when he worked up his Keith load for the 44 Mag way back when?
Would this have been the alloy used in his Keith bullet he used on the mule deer at 600 yards with his 4 incher M29?
Would like to duplicate his alloy in making ammo for my 44 mag.
23 February 2008, 15:30
estacado
The last 3 issues of handloader magazine had articles on the alloy mix of various velocity levels to get an effective gas seal. They had some information on Kieths loads and mix. Scovil and others mentioned their own experience and what was required to achieve the best results. They talked about linotype/1-20/1-16 and 1-10 mixtures if I remember correctly. More inclusive that just blindly following one writers prescription. There was more information in those 3 issues on cast bullet theory than I had seen anywhere before, or maybe I just ignored them before.

Estacado
23 February 2008, 16:14
Lloyd Smale
elmer used alot of 20/1 Probably because he had access to alot of pure and wws were not to prevelent then.
23 February 2008, 17:20
bfrshooter
Elmer had to use what he could get and pure lead and tin was very common, cheap and easy to find. There are much better choices today.
There is nothing wrong with 20 to 1 if it doesn't lead your gun and you get the accuracy you want. I say go ahead and try it.
24 February 2008, 00:42
Me_Plat
Just wondering. If something was good enough for Elmer Keith presumably it should be good enough for us or is there something I'm missing?
24 February 2008, 01:07
enfieldspares
Yes. Good enough is not always best. Mineral oil is "good enough" for putting in the crankcase of your car. Synthetic oil is better.

Keith used what he had to hand but the fact that the heavy loaded 44 Special was "good enough" still didn't stop him wanting better...the 44 Magnum.
02 March 2008, 08:23
trmungle
16 to 1 is what he always said he liked. I have shot many of the same 429421 bullets of the same mix over 22 grains of 2400. Worked good and will completly penetrate a deer lenghtwise
08 March 2008, 08:27
Philbilly
I know some of you guys are not going to believe me but------ straight wheelweights are all I ever use with just a little 50 50 lead tin solder. I use rooster red Zambini lube in all my loads. With this combination I get very little leading in 44 mags 30 carbine and 30 30 loads with no gas check. I size the 30s to 309 dia. Now my crono is broke but still can put the i30 grs 30 cal thru a 3 inch maple tree. I think they are going at least 1500 fps. My biggest bullet cast for the 44 is 325 gr.
08 March 2008, 08:31
Philbilly
Forgot to mention since am talking wheel weights glad ive got ar least 1000 lbs in my garage I hear they are becoming hard to come by anyone having any luck?
08 March 2008, 17:56
jwp475
quote:
Originally posted by Philbilly:
I know some of you guys are not going to believe me but------ straight wheelweights are all I ever use with just a little 50 50 lead tin solder. I use rooster red Zambini lube in all my loads. With this combination I get very little leading in 44 mags 30 carbine and 30 30 loads with no gas check. I size the 30s to 309 dia. Now my crono is broke but still can put the i30 grs 30 cal thru a 3 inch maple tree. I think they are going at least 1500 fps. My biggest bullet cast for the 44 is 325 gr.



I use straight wheel wieghts water quenched.. They work perfectly on everything including Moose and Bear.. Wheel wieghts is the material that Veral Smith suggested to me back around 1987 and water quenched out of the mould the hardnes should be around Brinell 22 to 24........


_____________________________________________________


A 9mm may expand to a larger diameter, but a 45 ain't going to shrink

Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened.
- Winston Churchill
11 March 2008, 02:33
Doubless
Water quenched straight out of the mould does wonders, but if you touch the bullet during the sizing/lubing step, you at least partially destroy the hardening. Typically the best way to do it is to size after casting (if necessary), then "stove harden" (and quench), then go back through the sizer to lube only.