Ever tried car wax in your case cleaner instead of brass cleaner?

19 September 2008, 17:58

Hot Core

quote:
Originally posted by onefunzr2:
If you have a half dozen half-empty cans to choose from, pick a liquid 'cleaner' wax.

This is a good idea because it will spread through the media a bit quicker. If you use paste wax you have to let it rock&roll a bit longer before tossing in the Cases.

I prefer Liquid Kit but any car wax will do fine. Come to think of it, the spray car waxes should do even better than the liquid. Huummm!

Car Wax works better for me than most Case Cleaners.
-----

Hey Terry, The last step in Moly Coating is a 60sec tumble in Carnuba(aka car wax).

22 September 2008, 01:57

Kenati

Yep, been doing it for years as well. Works like a champ. And I might be just imagining it, but it seems like they don't get re-oxidized as fas either.

22 September 2008, 02:41

steve box

A while back I worked for a guy at a shooting range. My job was to sort,clean and package brass for sale. During that time I tryed all kind of stuff to get it done. I had up to 5 tumblers running 24/7. I used just about everything. I got the best results from Dillon Rapid Polish, and I still use it today. I just wish I could find out were they get it from so I could buy it by the 55 gallon drum.

22 September 2008, 02:41

Hunt-ducks

I use car wax, chrome polish and brasso.

What ever I have.

22 September 2008, 02:59

steve box

I think next time I visit my sister the (LIBERAL OBAMA SUPPORTER FROM HELL) I might go on a scavenger hunt in her basement and see if she has anything to donate.

22 September 2008, 23:40

303Guy

I use TURLE WAX car wax polish for manual case polishing. No idea how it might work in a tumbler 'though.

23 September 2008, 03:35

Luckyducker

I use nothing but NuFinish car polish, it comes in an orange bottle that I buy at WalMart. It contains no wax and works just as well or better than brass case polish.

23 September 2008, 04:57

33806whelen

I used dillon case cleaner and some lee ot Lyman stuff also. LAtely I have ben using turtle wax liquid polishing compound that I watered down some more with distilled water.
I could not believe how smooth and shiny it came out. I was using walnut reptile bedding from Petco.

23 September 2008, 14:01

Paul from nz

if your spinning cases with a drill, Jbs bore paste on a rag works really well. makes em real shiny too!

24 September 2008, 03:32

ted thorn

quote:
Originally posted by Paul from nz:
if your spinning cases with a drill, Jbs bore paste on a rag works really well. makes em real shiny too!

A bit on the pricey side would'nt you think? The wax idea came about because I'm cheap!

25 September 2008, 15:16

yzm19

what kind of car wax and does it keep the oxidation away for a wile. i was told to use flitx metal polish. its like 9 bucks for 1.76 oz. im intrested in the car polish(cheaper) if it keep the oxidation off.

26 September 2008, 01:19

ted thorn

I am useing standard (not liquid) turtle wax as I type this out and it works great! You just spoon a couple globs into the media and moosh it up in your hands along with the media then let it run a couple of min. then add your brass.

26 September 2008, 05:45

Jim C. <><

Brass needs polish to clean it up. Few auto waxes contain polish. Polish is polish, and they are all pretty much the same. Add inexpensive auto polish to your media for shine.

A little wax may help reduce the recurrance of tarnishing but no "polish" will do it.

26 September 2008, 06:10

33806whelen

I believe you should never use waxes or lubricants on metallic cartridges. Lubricants prevent the case from "grabbing" the insides of the chamber as they expand during firing, and can cause pressures to raise and prevent the case from acting like the gasket that it is.

26 September 2008, 20:44

Mark

I have used liquid car polishes for quite a few years now, am happy with the results but am not beholden to any brand, just what is on the shelf at the time. Right now it is turtle wax.

I did recently find an old bottle of Lyman "media rejuvenator" that I forgot I had, so I'll probably use that next time I think it needs some sprucing up.

Or at least I will if I can find the bottle again.

26 September 2008, 21:40

swheeler

Posted 08 October 2007 21:24 Hide Post
I use a couple tablespoons full of Meguiar's Cleaner Wax for a tumbler full of crushed walnut lizard bedding from the pet store, cleans them up really good.
Posts: 558 | Registered: 15 October 2006

26 September 2008, 22:26

steve box

This is a little off subject but,I never bought any media from a pet store and I see people buying it for 16.00 for a flat rate box full. I get my media from a place called F&S supply in Birmingham Al. You can get a 50 pound bag of Corn Cobb for 20.00 and 40 pounds of walnut for 20.00. If you will find a place in your home town that sells abrasives and industrial supplys they might have it.

26 September 2008, 23:53

Paul B

Has anyone here considered that an ingredient in almost all car polish/waxes have AMMONIA as an ingredient?

Copper is part of the brass alloy and ammonia attacks copper which possibly can/will weaken brass over time, depending on how much ammonia is in the particular brand of polish
I for forget the brand of polish, bit several years ago one brand as very highly recommended for making brass pretty. I actually called the manufacturor to ask if ammonia was a componenet of the polish. It was so I never used it for brass. Did make my pick up nice and shiney though.
Just something to think about.
Paul B.

27 September 2008, 00:51

303Guy

I used the turtle wax because I had it and it looked abrasive i.e. contains 'polish'. My cases are old and had dull stains on them. They cleaned up pretty good and have stayed shiny.

33806whelen, the subject of lubricating cases had been discussed in another thread. I lube all my loaded cartridges to prevent them from grabbing the chamber walls too severely. The lube does in fact, not prevent grabbing but it does prevent binding and allows the case to stretch progressively and elastically along its length on firing. Wax residue does not seem to work as well as case lube. I get no case head separations from doing this and no case stretch. If I can find the thread I'll post the link.

27 September 2008, 02:46

Hot Core

quote:
Originally posted by Paul B:
Has anyone here considered that an ingredient in almost all car polish/waxes have AMMONIA as an ingredient? Copper is part of the brass alloy and ammonia attacks copper which possibly can/will weaken brass over time, depending on how much ammonia is in the particular brand of polish ...

That would be very bad news indeed. The label on the "Liquid Kit" car wax I use says 100% Carnuba. However, I've never requested an MSDS Sheet which would tell a person if it does contain Ammonia.

Thanks for the info Paul.

27 September 2008, 04:20

Alberta Canuck

My concern would be"How do you remove the grit (polish) from the cases after you are through cleaning them?

"Why remove it at all?" is a valid response, I guess. To that I ask another question - "If it is aggressive enough to clean my brass by abrasive action, what will it do when I spray it down my bore by shooting with it inside my cases, then run over it on the next shot with a tight-fitting bullet?"

As a result I don't use anything in my media which I can't easily get off the inside of my cases before I load them.

27 September 2008, 06:12

swheeler

quote:
Has anyone here considered that an ingredient in almost all car polish/waxes have AMMONIA as an ingredient?

[YES, that's why the Meguires, NO AMMONIA

27 September 2008, 06:19

Fish30114

Is IOSSO case polish really that expensive? It is built specifically for the job, and does it well, I also have bought some of the Dillon stuff....I didn't really think about it much, but it sure ain't a whole lot more than car wax or I would have. I like the resulsts a lot, and again, it is specifically made for the job.

I don't spend too much time looking for alternates to products for reloading, Bardahl instead of imperial as an example! Where can you get Bardahl anymore anyway Roger? When I searched for it on the web, there was lot's of lube listed under the Bardahl name, but none of the old Bardahl 'back side ointment' I always assume you alluded to...

28 September 2008, 01:54

steve box

Ok,Ok, now I know just enough to be dangerous. I think I might see what a couple of case manufactures have to offer.

28 September 2008, 12:13

303Guy

Well, this thread set me to thinking, (a very dangerous situation

), turtle car wax cleans car paint and polishes brass - what would it do in a dirty barrel? So I tried it! What can I say? It works! I shall try it again.

P.S. I would not like to use any product that contains ammonia on my car! Sugar soap on the other hand, stops rust.

03 October 2008, 17:27

DaveInFloweryBranchGA

I've used Nu Finish car polish as my brass polish in 50/50 corncob/crushed walnut shells for probably ten years or better. Works great, is inexpensive, smells decent, slicks up the cases a little bit for pistol brass resizing and did I say it was inexpensive? Just drizzle a capful in, then run the tumbler a few minutes to mix it up with the media. Hard to beat affordable combination when you get your media at a feed store as well.

Regards,

Dave

04 October 2008, 15:51

federali

I'm a little late to this thread. I would have to agree with Paul B that we should not use any ammonia based product on brass for the reasons he cited. Besides reloading, I'm also a cartridge collector and we never use Brasso or similar products on our specimens.

06 October 2008, 00:37

RustyFN

I have been using Nu Finish car polish for two years. A little bit goes a long way. I use 1/2 cap full every batch with crushed walnut, run for two hours and they come out like new. I have cleaned thousands of cases and am still on my first bottle.
Rusty

17 March 2009, 01:08

dmiller

I started using bartenders friend. It has no ammonia and comes in a powder, so its easier to deal with as far as clean up goes.

17 March 2009, 10:03

YUMAN

I have used liquid turtle wax, I thin it with about 50 percent alcohol. The alcohol evaporates fast but alows quicker mixing with the media.
Lyle

17 March 2009, 10:53

steve box

I'm going to try a can of Skoal Fine Cut Wintergreen in my next batch of brass!!!

17 March 2009, 11:55

303Guy

quote:
Besides reloading, I'm also a cartridge collector and we never use Brasso or similar products on our specimens.

Might I ask how you do preserve and clean your cartridges?

17 March 2009, 21:45

tnekkcc

Surfing the internet:

quote:
i started wearing nitrile gloves during brass handling, to combat the oil oxidation from hands. found i really don't have to tumble anymore, any carbon rings on the necks get a quick twist with steel wool.

brass stays shiny, no oily oxidation prints, rifles feed REAL nice.

quote:
I've been experimenting with the "clean and cheap" solution mentioned in this article: http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html

I've been using it in the vibrating tumbler with 1mm beads. It works well, but takes a long time. One thing that I notice is that this solution makes the carbon inside and in the primer pocket completely soft. I can wipe it out completely with just a Q-tip (soak a case and try it).

The problem was that the 1mm beads aren't agitating things enough to get the carbon off quickly (was leaving them in overnight). So, I put 200 cases in the rotary Thumler's and added 2 cups of water, 2 cups of vinegar and a drop of dawn. I let this run for and hour and a half then checked on it. The case necks were completely clean and the inside of the cases were pretty good too. However, the primer pockets were virtually untouched.

So, I added about 1.5-2 cups of angle cut ceramic media and let it go for another hour. Just checked on it. The primer pockets and insides of the cases are about 90% clean with just a few spots of carbon. The angle cut ceramic media is doing a great job of scraping off the soft carbon but it is so sparse that it isn't getting stuck in the cases at all. I reloaded the tumbler with the media, cases and dirty water to see how good it would get if I let it run for a few more hours.