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Fireforming 22-250 AI brass

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28 December 2015, 00:17
DPollard
Fireforming 22-250 AI brass
I have a 22-250 AI barrel on the way. I am getting ready to prep my brass for fire forming and would like some advice. I have seen where a lot of people use cream of wheat with a fast burning pistol powder to make their fireforming loads. Is this the preferred method? How does a person know how much powder to use? I have a pound of Unique on hand I would like to use since I have no other use for it. I have also seen some guys use soap to plug the cartridge to the filler and powder don't fall out. Will the soap damage the chamber of the gun?

Can cases be fireformed foregoing the cream of wheat method and just load up some bullets and powder traditionally?

Are there any other methods that work better for fireforming?
28 December 2015, 04:43
hivelosity
your choice, I have tried oatmeal, soap, wax. It all makes a mess.. I use a heavy bullet with a medium charge of powder. I seat the bullets as long as I can carefully seat the remainder with the bolt. that ensures that the case and bullet are held between the face of the bolt and the throat. you may want to anneil the case necks. I have had some splits with remngton and Winchester brass none with lapua.
28 December 2015, 05:12
ramrod340
I've used about everything.

Final answer is I load up std brass go shooting or hunting and have AI brass when I'm finished.

If your brass is not a crush fit the bullet in the lands helps. I normally only use that when I'm moving the shoulder forward.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
28 December 2015, 05:26
DPollard
Thank you for the replies. The more I ponder/read/research this, I think I would rather skip the "cream of wheat" method.

For those of you that just load up round and shoot, do you just use standard, middle of the road, charge data? How do you make sure you get the bullet into the lands without creating over pressure?

The brass I am using is brand new Lapua.
28 December 2015, 06:38
Fjold
Just take the starting load for the weight of bullet that you are using and seat the base of the bullet into the case neck.

When you close the bolt it will push the bullet into the lands and seat it deeper in the case.


Frank



"I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money."
- Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953

NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite

28 December 2015, 06:45
ramrod340
I usually lean towards a medium load with a faster powder. BUT, I don't normally seat the bullet in the lands for an AI. Gibbs style shoulder moved forward you bet bullet in the lands.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
28 December 2015, 07:31
hivelosity
PO Ackley vol. 1 and 2 covers about all there is. Very pricy books
28 December 2015, 08:56
dpcd
I always use the "bullet jammed into the rifling with a starting load" method; quick, no mess, and effective.
If you use starting loads you won't get over pressure.
28 December 2015, 14:19
Norseman
DPollard,

can you swing a hammer?
http://www.whiddengunworks.com.../hydraulic-form-die/
28 December 2015, 23:09
DPollard
quote:
Originally posted by Norseman:
DPollard,

can you swing a hammer?
http://www.whiddengunworks.com.../hydraulic-form-die/


Interesting. Thank you for pointing this out.
29 December 2015, 00:03
ramrod340
How much brass do you need? How long to pay out a $150 die?

Not a new idea Rocky Gibbs came up with it YEARS ago. Complaint I heard was leakage and a mess. In the Gibbs process you used the sizing die. An attachment replacing the expander heal a rod. You filled the case with oil the hit the rod. Very similar to the one linked. Just in those days it was $12.50. Big Grin


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
29 December 2015, 02:50
Stonecreek
Most AI chambers are a fairly tight fit with standard cartridges, so jamming the bullet into the lands is usually unnecessary (but a useful method if your chamber happens to be long.) Assuming your chamber is cut for properly snug headspace, I recommend loading your initial loads with a "maximum" load for the standard cartridge. I think you'll find the loads to be as accurate as those from fireformed cases, and velocity will be fast enough to use for most purposes.
29 December 2015, 03:30
DPollard
quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
How much brass do you need? How long to pay out a $150 die?

Not a new idea Rocky Gibbs came up with it YEARS ago. Complaint I heard was leakage and a mess. In the Gibbs process you used the sizing die. An attachment replacing the expander heal a rod. You filled the case with oil the hit the rod. Very similar to the one linked. Just in those days it was $12.50. Big Grin


I am going to form 100 cases to begin. $150 for the die is too steep for me. Not going that route, just nice to know it's out there.
29 December 2015, 05:58
ramrod340
quote:
I am going to form 100 cases to begin. $150 for the die is too steep for me.

Me too. Just work up your load and go shooting, Target, varmint, etc. Your rifle will give up a touch to a factory because of the larger chamber but not much. No reason to just waste powder, primer and bullet. Use them.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
04 January 2016, 05:30
416RigbyHunter
I, too, have tried all the different methods, the simplest and easiest for me, because I don't hunt with fireforming loads, is to use a twist and a poke of TP over a 1/3 of max charge of Clays. Cases come out with nice sharp, fully formed shoulders and body all the way to the web. Clays has a good bulk density, no need for COW or other fillers, just the TP (Toilet Paper) and poke it in firmly over the powder. Not once have I found any unburned paper where I fireform.

Cheers.
tu2
04 January 2016, 06:21
kend
My buddy had one and we fireformed his brass in the sizing die but with Bullseye instead of oil. I made a holder for the die using 2 inch aluminum stock bored and threaded for the die, drill a hole for a firing pin (a nail with the tip rounded). Load the case with a std primer, 3.5 grs (I think) of Bullseye, fill with corn meal and seal with soap or wax, lightly oil the case and push it into the die (remove the decapping pin and rod) then screw the holder on tight. I used a welding glove to hold it for firing but found it wasn't necessary but what is necessary is a trip to the range, that joker is loud. Whack the firing pin with a hammer and you have a perfectly formed case. Oh yeah, set the headspace using the lock ring on the die. Done.
04 January 2016, 07:25
ramrod340
quote:
, is to use a twist and a poke of TP over a 1/3 of max charge of Clays.

Like you if I'm not hunting with forming loads I use powder and TP. COW is a royal pain in the a$$.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
04 November 2016, 17:46
Phil Brousseau
look at stonecreeks post. you can alot of times work up a fire form load that is as accurate as the rifle will ever be. i just shoot form loads & save my brass to reload.
04 November 2016, 23:26
ramrod340
quote:
Most AI chambers are a fairly tight fit with standard cartridges, so jamming the bullet into the lands is usually unnecessary (but a useful method if your chamber happens to be long.)

I agree if you have a proper AI chamber there is no need to jamb the bullet. In my case the majority of my forming involves wildcats that the shoulder is moved forward. So I got used to jamming the bullet into the lands for head spacing so just go into the habit. Doesn't hurt(provided your load is worked up that way) but no always needed.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K