Neck Turning Discrepancy

18 January 2018, 19:54

Al 1

I have two rifle with tight necks, 22-250 Ackley Improved and 6 MM Remington, so I have to turn my brass. I read an article that says to full length size the brass to force the shoulder and body into a standard configuration and then trim to one length. Other articles don't include those steps. Are they required? This is of course is new brass that hasn't been fire formed. I can understand trimming so the necks are cut the same length after setting the stop on the cutter. My only concern when fire forming the 22-250 Imp the cases are shorter than the minimum. I don't know if this should be a concern. Thanks for your responses.

18 January 2018, 20:08

Saeed

A lot of cases formed into an Ackley chamber will shorten.

It does not seem to have any practical effect at all.

18 January 2018, 22:37

dpcd

Here is my theory and practice; FL resize first and then neck turn. Why? Because during resizing, and pulling the inside neck expander up through, the brass can move forward from the shoulder into the neck, and if you turn before that, you can sometimes have a little 'doughnut' of brass at the shoulder/neck interface.
This phenomena is most evident when forming brass from a longer one when you are making necks from what used to be shoulder or body brass. You will definitely get a donut with those if you do not size before turning.
Make any sense? It is a real thing though.

19 January 2018, 19:36

Al 1

I use Redding competition dies, no expander button. I neck turn using K&M turner with the mandrel and that pushes irregulaties outside the neck. I turn into the shoulder so I don't get the donut. Do you trim your brass to the same length?

19 January 2018, 20:28

dpcd

Yes, turning the shoulder will help with the donut. But you do inside neck expand even if you don't use the expander button; seating the bullet does that. In extreme cases, like forming brass from longer ones, the donut will form.
Yes, trim your brass; but not something I worry a lot about in hunting ammo.

20 January 2018, 19:38

243winxb

Turn new brass. Fire form, turn again to shoulder.

21 January 2018, 03:38

Atkinson

Turn new brass? why, you need to shoot it in your chamber and fireform it first, its always short when its new, don't cut it shorter, wait until it needs it..mostly to keep pressure, some guys get so et up with teck its scary!

Ive seen some old time awesome bench resters that are sloppy as hell, just fill a case full of powder and shoot!

Unless Im shooting my bench rest chambered guns with zero tolerance necks I never outside or inside turn brass, it overworks the brass and leads to splits with factory chambers that are oversize so one shoe fit all so to speak..I trim necks regularly as needed..The less brass is monkied with the better IMO..and all pertains only to bench guns IMO, it makes so little difference on a hunting rifle..like a couple of hundred throusands in group size, oh my Gosh!!

The other thing is these case trimmers are not nearly as accurate as some seem to think they are..If Im going to use a crimp and I want it in the exact placement with each and everyload I will use a file trim die, its accurate and each case will be correct for a factory roll crimp..I do this with double rifles, and Winchester, Marlin levers etc. If your shooting bench rest, probably best to read your case with Micrometer and vise, not a caliper.

23 January 2018, 20:27

Al 1

quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
Turn new brass? why, you need to shoot it in your chamber and fireform it first, its always short when its new, don't cut it shorter, wait until it needs it..mostly to keep pressure, some guys get so et up with teck its scary! Ive seen some old time awesome bench resters that are sloppy as hell, just fill a case full of powder and shoot!

Unless Im shooting my bench rest chambered guns with zero tolerance necks I never outside or inside turn brass, it overworks the brass and leads to splits with factory chambers that are oversize so one shoe fit all so to speak..I trim necks regularly as needed..The less brass is monkied with the better IMO..and all pertains only to bench guns IMO, it makes so little difference on a hunting rifle..like a couple of hundred throusands in group size, oh my Gosh!!

The other thing is these case trimmers are not nearly as accurate as some seem to think they are..If Im going to use a crimp and I want it in the exact placement with each and everyload I will use a file trim die, its accurate and each case will be correct for a factory roll crimp..I do this with double rifles, and Winchester, Marlin levers etc. If your shooting bench rest, probably best to read your case with Micrometer and vise, not a caliper.

I have to turn the new brass since I have tight neck chambers. The brass will not be over worked since I only size .002 smaller than the size of the chamber. I use Redding competition dies. I will trim to the average length and disgard any really short ones. These are custom rifle for long range varmint hunting.