Working Up Magnum Revolver Loads

15 November 2004, 16:03

very familiar with load work-up on RIFLES and watching for flattening primers, sticky bolts, shiny extractor marks etc etc.

Very little data available for my new gun a 445 Supermag....As I work up loads on a revolver what are some of their signs of reaching max? This is a Large Frame Dan Wesson from their custom shop. My intent is not to see the outer reaches of what it can do but I am wondering if there are pressure signs that are particular or unique to revolvers/straight wall cases that perhaps I am not aware of

How temperature stabile is H110?

My first loads will be with H110 and Cast Performance 300gr GC's. Any sharing of experiences from you revolver pro's is very appreciated.

15 November 2004, 18:23

Still Crawfish

The best way is by using a chronograph, since you donï¿½t mention having one Iï¿½ll assume you donï¿½t. Generally sticky cases will tell you that you are at the gunï¿½s limit. Case in point I have 10 different .41RemMag handguns. The loads I use now are safe in all BUT the maximum loads in some are really scary in others. When you get to the point where you have to push out the cases GO SLOW and surely stop if you reach the point where you have to use something on the extractor rod to nudge them out.
I had a Wesson 7414 up until about 5 months ago, sold it to a bear/pig hunter in TN. Very strongly made gun that handled my stoutest hunting loads with ease.

15 November 2004, 23:13

jsr

I'v gotten cratered and flattened primers in one of my 44s,though they extracted easily. That was in a S&W,the same load was fine in my Blackhawks. No sticky bolts or extractor marks as of yet.

16 November 2004, 04:04

Hot Core

Quote:

... As I work up loads on a revolver what are some of their signs of reaching max? ... I am wondering if there are pressure signs that are particular or unique to revolvers/straight wall cases that perhaps I am not aware of. ...

Hey Ultraman, I'd recommend you go with Pressure Ring Expansion(PRE) using a 0.0001" capable Micrometer.

Simply shoot a box of factory ammo and measure the PRE on 20 rounds by rotating the case between the anvils to locate the widest diameter. Average the PRE and write it on the box.

Full Length Resize and begin developing your Loads using those same exact cases. Measure the PRE as you go and when you reach the same PRE as the factory ammo - STOP.

You can get good data for reloads "1 through about 9" depending on the strength of those Loads.

Case Head Expansion(CHE) is not the thing to use on Revolver/Pistol cases because it doesn't always work properly due to the internal case design and SAAMI Pressure Specs.

---

Only problem with using a chronograph as the "when to STOP" decision maker is that it can be misleading. You may be under Pressure, the same, or over Pressure and not be aware of it by simply watching the Velocity. Doesn't mean you shouldn't include it as one more piece of data if you have a chronograph. But I would encourage anyone not to use it as the only way of knowing when to STOP.

Interesting post within the Thread on the GunSmith Board about the Sako Blowing up. One of the posters in it mentioned overloading a Ruger because he was simply going by Velocity on a chronograph. He didn't get hurt, but that is because he was both lucky and using a very strong rifle.