I've been wanting one of these for about a dozen years and finally have one - thanks to my awesome wife for getting it for me ~

Now, I just need to learn the best ways to put it to use - any tips and lessons?

Yes. They work well, I understand, with long grain powders but not very well with ball powders. In fact some I read on the internet say they are the best factory powder measure in that price point for long grain powders.

Ive seen lots of complaints about ball powders leaking but Ive not had that problem at all. Ive read that it can be cured by disassembly and tightening it up, but Ive not had the need.

I picked up one of these adapters;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEE-Pe...b57ca40#ht_983wt_880

And now my LPPM is mounted on my turret press. The drop tube seems to work much better then the factory tube. I have had problems with stick powders hanging up in the plastic factory tube. Problem gone with this one.

I now have a redding, Lyman 55, belding and mull and I still use the cheapo Lee. Hated the cheap plastic feel at first, but Ive actualy grown rather attached to it.


It meters just as well as any of them and I LOVE the easy hopper dump feature. I also like the smooth easy action as opposed to the forcefull, choppy, powder cutting action of most others.
For just over 20 bucks, its hard to go wrong with the LPPM.

Use a firm and consistant pull in the level to get a uniform result. I use to tap with my fingers on the container after a fill up.

After 30 years my Pacific measure (bought used)
started to act up. I bought a Lee. It seems flimsy, but it works well. Time will tell but
now it is a real bargain.

While pistols loads are dispensed satisfactorily by the powder measure issued with my Dilon XL 650, I won't use anything else than my Harrell's when it comes to (handloaded 1 by 1) accuracy rifle loads.

I see you have a "cheat sheet" on the wall. Is that the micrometer settings for your charges?

Do you check the settings against a scale each time?

I always throw ten charges into the pan and weigh it. That tells me how accurate the measure is to the 0.01 grain.

Quote "Ive seen lots of complaints about ball powders leaking but I've not had that problem at all. Ive read that it can be cured by disassembly and tightening it up, but Ive not had the need."

When I first got mine a long time ago it would do that but I didn't have to take it apart to fix it. I read somewhere (internet or maybe Handloader magazine) that just tightening the screw that is also used to hold the handle on would do the trick. I tried it and it worked great on mine....no problems since.

It also eliminates the " binding" feeling one sometimes gets when throwing charges of flake powders with it.

I've never had to re-tighten it once I got it set to the right tension.

Sorry for my late reaction, Paul.

I'll answer yes on all your questions. For rifle loads, I check each load against the scale (to adjust to the exact weight, if needed) before pouring it in the case. BTW, I know for having experienced and proved to myself, that an exact powder charge is not THE paramount factor in an accurate load but I just feel better knowing it. It's all in the head, I know...

quote:

Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
Quote "Ive seen lots of complaints about ball powders leaking but Ive not had that problem at all. Ive read that it can be cured by disassembly and tightening it up, but Ive not had the need."

When I first got mine a long time ago it would do that but I didn't have to take it apart to fix it. I read somewhere (internet or maybe Handloader magazine) that just tightening the screw that is also used to hold the handle on would do the trick. I tried it and it worked great on mine....no problems since.

It also eliminates the " binding" feeling one sometimes gets when throwing charges of flake powders with it.

I've never had to re-tighten it once I got it set to the right tension.

+1

I have three of them; they are as accurate as my Lyman 55s and are very cheap. I set and forget them; so I don't have to adjust for diffeerent loads as much. No cutting off issues like the metal drum measures. Yes they are flimsey and cheap which is why some guys hate them but they are accurate. I also like that you can remove the canister without spilling powder.

quote:

BTW, I know for having experienced and proved to myself, that an exact powder charge is not THE paramount factor in an accurate load but I just feel better knowing it.

Yep! It's just about the only thing your average "Reloader" CAN be exact on so most are completely anal about it!


.

Absolutely, Jtex. I used to match prep' all cases, even hunting loads, i.e. neck turning, squaring primer Pocket, separating case lots by weight and segregating them by concentricity.

One day, having fireformed new cases in my (very accurate) Sauer 202 in .30-06 and prior to submit them to the above tortures, I was amazed that the groups I fired were as small as those produced by my "match" brass. To eliminate a fluke, I repeated the test and got the same results. I went a step further and mixed up handloads with both prepped and 1x fired untreated cases and still obtained the same groups. Go figure ! Since, I reserve the full treatment to my target rifles in .308 and .222 (for my peace of mind ?) but use no more than sensible reloading technique + top equipment for hunting ammo. Today I feel that the real essentials for top accuracy are a quality and well bedded bbl. to start with + bullets the rifle likes and seated to the depth giving the right bullet jump to tune the barrel's harmonics. From there on, one may try and compare powders and charges to isolate the best for the distance he shoots at (most loads often do better at a given distance).

You are exactly right; I wish more reloaders would realize that measuring to within .1 grains is a waste of time. But some guys take pride in that kind of anal stuff; I would rather be shooting.

I got mine with the Anniversary kit 20 years ago. While it was quite accurate once set up correctly, I did find it a pain to adjust and also a bit fragile.

I sold mine & got a RCBS, which is a lot more robust & has a small drum for 222 Rem size cases and a larger drum for larger cases.

I always found that with such as H4831 (the original long grain) that my RCBS used to "bridge" or "span". Such that I got rid of it.