Hello all. I've been reading up around here for a bit now, and am impressed with the level of knowledge and willingness to help. So, maybe you'll take pity on a boy about to get started down this road and pitch in with some advice. Here's the scoop:

I'm about to put a deposit down on a Ruger No. 1. The chambering has not been decided yet, and will not be decided until some individual guns have been looked at. It will be either a 270 Win. or a 7x57. Primary use will be Eastern Whitetail, and practice. We'll leave it at that for now, so's to keep it simple.

I used to reload, mostly handgun cartridges, with my father, when I was a kid. Dad passed away going on 6 years ago, and I pretty much inherited everything. I've spent most of the last 6 years in the shotgunning world, but want to get back into rifles, which I haven't really touched in 15 years. I've got an old "Orange Crusher" press that was my dad's. I'm hoping that will work for rifle reloading. I do have an old manual somewhere as well. That's pretty much it. I'm going to have a few dozen more questions in the future, I'm sure, but let's start off with the basics: I need a shopping list. Your recommendations for the following are appreciated, as well as anything I might have missed. Also, I'd like to get good stuff, without breaking the bank. (By that I mean a $70 die set is better than a $25 one, but a $200 one is not.)

Die Set
Powder Scale
Bullet sizing gizmos?
calipers?
Powder
Bullets (hunting & target)

And any recommended reading you care to suggest.

Thanks. Hope all's well with you and yours.

VA

ps. I'm interested in developing a very accurate hunting rifle and loads, but not necessarily to BR standards. I'm sure that bug will bite me somewhere down the line, but for now I just want to play with my hunting gun.

[This message has been edited by VictorMiami (edited 12-18-2001).]

Hi. I'm not too familiar with the #1, but Redding dies are very good. Buy some more manuals-- the more the better-- and read them. Basic tools work well if speed isn't a concern. So, an inexpensive scale will work as well as an expensive one. Find some cheap bullets that work well in your gun for practise and use a premium bullet for your hunting. Your Orange Crusher should work fine. The "new" hand priming tools are nice. The RCBS uses the same shell holder as for loading so that will save buying more bits and pieces. Hope that helps and have fun.

For reloading tools (scales, dies,ect)you can`t go wrong with RCBS. I have a 20 yr old Lyman Orange Crusher that still turns out ammo without a hitch, it`s a good press and you should be well served with yours. I`m not sure what your looking for in a bullet sizeing tool but if your talking measuring OAL off the ogive of the bullet the stony point is the easiest IMO. Without knowing which cartridge your going to load I`m not sure of a powder, although one of the 4350s should work well in the 270 or 7x57 it`s not my 1st choice in either.

Thanks for the suggestions. I suppose I should have gotten more to the point in the opening post. I've read enough on here to know that I should go get some Redding dies. Questions is: which ones? I noticed they have a few different types. Also, which RCBS scale? Finally, speed is definitely not an issue. I'll probably be working up 50 rounds at a time, a few times initially, then maybe twice a year. I just want to do it right. Good to know the Lyman press will work fine.

Thanks again,

VA

ps. I'll definitely ask again once I know the specific cartridge. I'm just looking for a general direction right now. THanks.

[This message has been edited by VictorMiami (edited 12-18-2001).]

Redding dies are good, thats my choice also. As for the types of dies, get a standard "full length resizer set". It will have a sizing die that will fully size the case including the neck and dislodge the primer. Just like your dads pistole die did probably. The second die in the set will be the bullet seater.

Later on you can start playing with specialised dies but starting out just use the Full Length set.

For scales there are two basic types. The balance beam which is more reliable and usually a little more accurate. Then theres the electronic scale which is the more convienent of the two. Both scales will give you around a tenth of a grain accuracy. Its a personal choice thing. I have both. I use the electronic. But when I have a doubt I check it with my balance...... ray

RCBS dies
Ohler scale

just a suggestion.

------------------
When in doubt, do a nuclear strike.

Go buy a good manual by speer,sierra,hornady,etc....Study the front section of the book.That should help with 98% of your initial questions.

Thanks again for the advice. Jag's final response seems to be the most logical, and a good way to go without dropping a bunch of cash up front. Now, I don't suppose they sell these manuals at Barnes & Noble, do they?

Couple of suggestions:

41.5 degree countersink reamer, 1/2" or so. Best thing going for inside deburring of trimmed brass, and for removing mil crimp on the primer pocket if you ever need to do that. $7 or less.

$15 4" dial calipers from Harbor Frieght. Plenty good for this application.

Read the online reloading material from IMR, Hodgdon, etc. Having too many reloading manuals is like being too rich or too good looking.

Try the Loadbooks... about $9 each, compiled data from several sources, all for one caliber.

I happen to like Lee dies. They are as good as any, and I think their neck sizing die and factory crimp die are better than most. I have had instances of slight burrs that scratched my brass, but 30 seconds with a Dremel tool fixed them.

Just my opinion--electronic scales offer no adavantage over mechanical balances. Save your money.

Spend a few bucks on a carpet remnant to put on the floor under your press. When you drop brass, you won't bend the mouth.

Lee Perfect Powder measure. $25, and as good as any. As with most powder measures, accurate enough for ball powder, but a little sporting on rod powder. With flake powder... well.... hold your nose.

Lee brass trimmer. Cheap as dirt, and works as well as any, if you have a variable speed drill.

Stick with the press you have. The critical parts on the Lee presses aren't even aluminum. They are zinc (pot metal).

Case/neck lube. I like the water/paraffin based stuff, but let it dry overnight before you load. Lots less cleanup than oil based.

Excellent. I just copied all that and saved it.

Thanks.

VA

On the selection of the model I would pick the 22" bbl for deer hunting. The reason is that the #1's are not that light. With a scope the 26" bbl weighs 9 lbs and the 22" is 8 lbs. Get whatever forend you like but if you get the Mannlicher stock then you can't free float the bbl and that is a given with a #1. You might search the threads on the #1 for that kind of information.

As to the caliber selection between those two I would pick the .270. You don't need "premium" bullets for deer.

I have hunted one of my #1 since they came out and I enjoy hunting with them.

Besides your local store you could check online for dies and bullets with Graf, Midway or Mid-South or others.

Thanks, Don. We've pretty much got it narrowed down to a No. 1A Light Sporter in the two chamberings mentioned. I agree that the 270 is probably a wiser choice, but I'm going to let the individual guns decide for me. I've got a friend who's a real No. 1 expert picking it out for me. I believe he owns over 20 of them, now, and he's going to pass on his dealer cost to me. The ballistic differences b/w the 7x57 and 270 were so narrow that the fact that I'm going to roll my own makes it irrelevant. The 7x57 seems to be a little classier, and that's part of the fun. If I wasn't in this for the fun, I'd just go get a good 700 with a plastic stock and shoot tiny groups all day long. But we're after something else here, something to do with more than practicality. Part of that is the reloading.

My 1A with the 22" was a 7mm. It was the Rem Mag however. Back then the bbls and chambers were not so good but that rifle still shot 1.5" groups until I wore the bbl out. It turns out that Ruger put a 1-10 twist bbl on it so when it got worn it would not stabilize the 160 gr spitzer any longer.

Most of the time I loaded the 130 Speer or 140 Sierra with light loads. Much like a 7 Mauser. The killing power is the same for all of this bunch. .270/7mm/308/06. You have to go up to maybe .35 to see a difference.

I just had the old Ruger rebarreled and I almost got a .270 but the 06 won out. Again.

As soon as you get it take off the forend and carve up a faucet washer to put the screw thru and fit between the hangar and the stock. This will free float it in effect.

You have it right. Keep it fun.