The Accurate Reloading Forums
Re: Removing Imperial Sizing Wax

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02 June 2004, 08:32
KevinNY
Re: Removing Imperial Sizing Wax
So basically it's a 300 Whisper Rimmed, neat idea. I had one of the early TC factory super 14's in 300 Whisper.
02 June 2004, 07:54
KevinNY
Just wipe off with a paper towel.

"Forming 300 Whisper brass from 357 Max" ??

300 Whisper is formed from 221 Firebal brass.
02 June 2004, 01:35
WayneShaw
Use a paper towel and spray it with Windex, just lightly, damp only. It takes all the wax right off. Cases are squeeky clean.

I don't reload for volume, just for accuracy. But a tumbler would do fine too.
02 June 2004, 13:50
lawndart
If I'm cleaning more than a houndred cases I tumble. Otherwise a paper towel dampened with denatured alcohol takes Imperial off quickly and easily.
JCN
02 June 2004, 16:58
JohnT
Got this from someone elso on some forum. Have tried it & it works for the normal sizing lubes can't see why it won't for Imperial Wax.

Get a whole bottle of acetone & a glass jar (large coffee jar with a lid). Put cases in pour in acetone to cover completely, swirl a few times. Pour acetone back into original cases using a funnel. Pour out cases onto a container with a rag or old newspapers as a liner & allow to dry. Will only take a few minutes for the acetone to evaporate.

You can reuse the acetone over & over till it gets too yucky to use.

Also great to remove the fine filings after neck trimming & deburring.

Regards
JohnT
03 June 2004, 02:22
Dino32HR
Quote:

...but only use acetone in a WELL ventilated room (or better, outside), as it is a nasty solvent that will "dissolve" your central nervous system over time.
- mike



Eye haf uzed assitone fer mani yearzs and haf had no ill effex from it at all ! Sharp az a tak I is !

In all seriousness - it's fumes are also VERY, VERY flammable. If you do use it, as Mike states, use it in a very well ventilated area. After a while, you become anesthesiatized to it and don't even realize the level of concentration of fumes in the room or the fact that you are getting loopy ! Also, don't let it absorb into your skin. No s**t !
03 June 2004, 11:16
Arts
Seems like a big deal being made out of a minor problem! I sit there with a cloth rag in my lap and it takes mere moments to wipe each case as it comes out of the die. Actually easier to get off than most lubes in my opinion.
02 June 2004, 08:05
Dino32HR
Quote:

"Forming 300 Whisper brass from 357 Max" ??

300 Whisper is formed from 221 Firebal brass.



Kevin,

In most cases, it most likely is. HOWEVER - if your .300 Whisper barrel has had a counterbore cut for a rim, and the extractor is made for a rimmed case, you use .357 Max as the parent brass.

I made this choice as I was told there are advantages like:

1) A heavier case which contributes to longer case life

2) Less growth between reloadings due to the thicker walls

3) The rim makes it easier to extract.

4) The .357 Max brass is a hell of a lot cheaper than .221 Fireball brass

5) It's easier to form due to the fact that you are not stretching the case mouth up to .308, but forming the .357 down.

I've just started forming the brass now. Time will tell if all these advantages are true. Some have already proven themselves. We'll see about the rest I guess !
03 June 2004, 15:45
Atkinson
I put a little alcohol on a rag and wipe them off...the Alcohol dries quickly...
03 June 2004, 15:39
Bob338
Totally agree with Arts. I do similarly with a paper towel, usually when I'm hand priming. Cases don't have to be totally degreased for cry's sake. As long as the case can reasonably grip the chamber when it goes "BANG", that's all you need.
02 June 2004, 17:54
mho
...but only use acetone in a WELL ventilated room (or better, outside), as it is a nasty solvent that will "dissolve" your central nervous system over time.

Since Imperial is so easy to get off using methods involving far less health hazards, why not go that way? Heck, stuff the cases in a tumbler and tumble them for half an hour - while you watch your favourite program on TV...
- mike