I bought a few boxes of 338 and 308 dia Partition Gold bulltets that I found on sale.

I loaded up some of the 250 338 into my 340 wby using the same load as I do for the std 250 partition. Accuracy was awful, I was wondering what type of experience people have had with them.

Bill - Are you shooting the moly or non-molly Golds? If you are shooting the molys you will need to follow a normal moly break in proceedure for your barrel before they begin to fly well.

I shoot the non-moly golds my 7mm's and .338's. I like the tougher design and have no problems with accuracy, however, I had to work with the load. They have less lead and more copper jacket. Because they are longer than the standard Partitions, they do fly a little different.

I haven't used any partition Golds, but have been wondering if their complex structure really lends itself to accuracy. The extra steel cup surronding the rear lead core, sandwiched in between the core and jacket, would appear to introduce a lot of opportunity for non-concentricity and imbalance. Will be interested to see what others have found. (Of course with the price of these bullets, not many people are going to do extensive accuracy testing.)

I recently bought some Nosler Partition Gold Moly. What is the break in like? I have never used moly, and am planning an elk outing this Nov? Sure would appreciate your help. Thanks, Blueowl

------------------
No nation shall be both ignorant and free-it never was-and never will be.

Blueowl - If you plan on shooting moly in your gun, here are a few things you should do:

1. Before you start, make sure your barrel is absolutely clean. Use Sweets to clean all traces of copper from your barrel. Follow directions and do not leave in your barrel for more than 15 minutes at a time. Keep cleaning till you have all copper removed. Finish with a flood of BreakFree or Kroil and push out excess oil with one patch. (Remove any trace of oil right before you shoot the next time.)

2. When you are ready for the range, you should shoot one moly bullet and then clean with Kroil and patches. Remove all powder fouling with brush and patches saturated with Kroil till clean.

3. Shoot the next round and clean as directed. Continue this for the first 10 rounds. Then go to every 3 rounds till 20. At this point in time, your barrel is properly burnished with moly. When finished at the range, simply use Kroil on patches till they come out clean. Leave a coating of either Kroil or BreakFree in your barrel for storage.

4. You can generally shoot 50 to 100 rounds this way before you need to clean the moly from your barrel. This is done with a little JB and Kroil. You will need to use Sweets to really get back to a clean barrel. Once completed, you will need to break in the barrel all over again. You will notice particularly heavy fouling in the throat area. This is normal.

5. When shooting moly bullets, pressures drop due to the reduction in friction. You will need to shoot across a chrono to work your loads back up to pre-moly velocities. This may take as much as a 5% increase in charge weights depending upon the cartridge and load. You may need to move up to a faster burn rate powder due to a longer bullet and higher charge weight. You can run out of case capacity.

6. DO NOT SHOOT COPPER JACKETED BULLETS ON TOP OF MOLY. Make sure all moly has been removed if you are going back to copper bullets. Switching back and forth is not recommended.

I shot the moly Golds initially in several of my guns. Accuracy was not what I wanted so I switched to the Moly Free Golds. I have found they fly as well at the standard Partitions. No bullet upset, or strange flyers, or imbalance. Manufacturing quality seems to be quite high.

I would recommend that you start with the Non-Moly Golds FIRST before undergoing the headaches of moly. It is a very time consuming and expensive process. I think they are great for varmint guns but questionable for big game rifles.

Hope this helps........

[This message has been edited by Zero Drift (edited 08-06-2001).]

Zero Drift gave you the correct procedure for breaking in your barrel to the moly bullets. I used the .338 250 gr. Partition Gold Moly for a Moose hunt to Alaska in my .340 Wby and was extremely happy with the results. I got one hole groups but had to tweak and shoot quite a bit. I now use the Barnes XLC 225 gr. for Elk and have had great success with it. In this rifle I do not use the non coated bullets, after shooting several hundred rounds getting where I am with the coated bullets. Good Shooting.

------------------

I have used the non-moly coated 308-180gr and have had great luck with them. Tougher than a standard partition and no more trouble for me to get good groups. The early moly coated ones were awful, but then I don't like moly anyway. They had a slight design change about the time the non-moly bullets were brought out for sale and these later ones shoot excellent in my rifles. IMO, they are a better bullet than the standard partitions.

Hello,
Just a thought why would you want to go through that trouble when the non molys shoot so well and you can interchange other weights like the 210 Part I cn't hole my rifle as steady in the field as I can at the range and get .458 3 shoot 210 Nosler Part there???????
Old Timer

Old Timer - Shooting moly is a trade off at best. You can shoot longer but your cleaning time and subsequent break in time is far longer. When you are hunting for an extended time, not having to clean your gun every 15 rounds or so is a benefit. Plus, most clean bores require a fouler or two to get back into the accuracy groove.

Consider hunting in Africa for 14 days and not going through an extensive scrubbing every other day. The idea behind moly is that you do not lose any accuracy out to 50 to 100 rounds. General cleaning is a breeze and you don�t waste any time or make a bunch of noise shooting foulers. OR if you are a varmint shooter (notice I didn�t use hunter), not having to clean your gun till you shoot 100 straight is a huge benefit. Keep the gun cool and smash a bunch of gophers without a concern for cleaning or accuracy is a wonderful benefit of moly.

But for the average moose, deer, or elk hunter, I really do not see any advantage for moly. You will shoot a couple of times and return home to clean your gun. You might as well shoot copper and avoid the headaches of moly.

BTW - Welcome to the forum!