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New Brass Prep

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22 July 2009, 04:14
Rammag
New Brass Prep
Is it necessary or recommended to resize new 223 brass?

The cases are within limits of my Dillon case gauge, but several pieces have dinged case necks. I was thinking of using a Lee collet die or running the case neck over the expander button of Dillon die, without resizing the entire case.
22 July 2009, 04:48
Bigdaddytacp
Yes,I always resize new brass and check to see that they are trimmed to the same "trim to" length.....the sizing helps the bullet seat and release the same in each case and lets them fireform consistantly.....good luck and good shooting/loading!


bigdaddytacp
22 July 2009, 07:43
Stonecreek
A few to a lot of the case necks of bulk brass will be out-of-round. I run new brass through either a Lee Collet die or through a full length sizer backed off so that it sizes about 2/3rds or more of the neck but doesn't touch the shoulder or body of the case. I also chamfer the insides and outsides of the necks. It is unusual to find brass that is so inconsistent that it needs trimming to uniform it, but doing so would be called for if it varies by more than .005".
22 July 2009, 08:04
SR4759
I like to expand it and if the brass is pretty beat up on mouth I size the upper half or so of the neck to iron out the dings. If it chambers I do not size the body I shoot it.
22 July 2009, 22:22
stillbeeman
I bump each round over the expander ball to make sure the neck is round and then load it up and shoot it. Why waste time trimming and all that when you're gonna have to do it over again after the first firing.
22 July 2009, 22:30
Bear in Fairbanks
I always FL resize new brass.
Bear in Fairbanks


Unless you're the lead dog, the scenery never changes.

I never thought that I'd live to see a President worse than Jimmy Carter. Well, I have.

Gun control means using two hands.

22 July 2009, 23:08
Hunt-ducks
Neck size only if it needs it.
22 July 2009, 23:27
Grumulkin
Here we go again; this subject gets run into the ground on many forums at least every 2 or 3 months. Usually the majority comes out on the side where it's felt that failure to trim and resize new brass is risky and akin to walking around town with your zipper down.

I don't resize or trim new brass; it's a waste of time. If the mouths are really out of round, I might round them out a bit but if seating boat tailed bullets usually just seat the bullet without doing anything at all to the case.

I do, however, inspect new brass and discard the rare case with an off center flash hole (another subject worthy of a long heated discussion).
22 July 2009, 23:48
Doc224/375
Depends on whether your a Plinker Plunker Hunter Dunker or BR shooter doesn't it .

Never a better time to neck size and true up those necks , weigh an sort and bump the shoulder .


If using an X Die set up ?, never a better time to trim ,as it's nearly the last time you'll need

to do it . Polish and make pretty . archer Visual inspection primer pocket prep .


So much easier to clean after firing not to mention chamber . archer

When it comes to making beautiful brass reloads , few if any exceed WOODS !.

Ask him what he does . You now know what I do . archer
23 July 2009, 09:14
woods
Thanks Doc

On new cases (WW, Remington, Federal)

1. True the necks up if they need it with whatever sizer you have
2. Deburr the inside of the flash hole
3. Outside neck turn if you are going to
4. Chamfer the inside of the case mouth
5. Weight sort if you are going to
6. Sort by neck thickness if you are going to

Then after the first firing it is time to

1. Inside neck ream if you are going to
2. Neck size
3. Trim
4. Chamfer inside and out
5. Clean or polish as preferred

On 3 times fired or whenever the cases become hard to chamber

1. Neck size
2. Push the shoulder back as little as possible to alleviate crush fit
3. Trim if necessary
4. Clean or polish as preferred
5. Chamfer as necessary

With Nosler, Lapua or Norma brass you usually don't have to do anything with new brass except load and shoot if you are not outside neck turning. These 3 types of cases have the primer hole drilled so deburring is not necessary, they are weight sorted and the necks are uniform right out of the box.


____________________________________
There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice.
- Mark Twain |

Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others.

___________________________________
23 July 2009, 13:47
lurcher
Does any one use a K&M or Sinclair expander mandrel and die body holder. I think these can be obtained in several diameters to allow adjustment of neck tension also?
23 July 2009, 16:11
DMB
quote:
Originally posted by woods:
Thanks Doc

On new cases (WW, Remington, Federal)

1. True the necks up if they need it with whatever sizer you have
2. Deburr the inside of the flash hole
3. Outside neck turn if you are going to
4. Chamfer the inside of the case mouth
5. Weight sort if you are going to
6. Sort by neck thickness if you are going to

Then after the first firing it is time to

1. Inside neck ream if you are going to
2. Neck size
3. Trim
4. Chamfer inside and out
5. Clean or polish as preferred

On 3 times fired or whenever the cases become hard to chamber

1. Neck size
2. Push the shoulder back as little as possible to alleviate crush fit
3. Trim if necessary
4. Clean or polish as preferred
5. Chamfer as necessary

With Nosler, Lapua or Norma brass you usually don't have to do anything with new brass except load and shoot if you are not outside neck turning. These 3 types of cases have the primer hole drilled so deburring is not necessary, they are weight sorted and the necks are uniform right out of the box.


+1