Fireforming Question/Help

27 November 2003, 09:10

Seems like I ask more questions that anybody on this forum. I reload a lot, but I am kind of new to fireforming brass. Gez, I am forming brass and I don't even have the gun yet (sent my .223 XP-100 to Pacnor to be rebarreled to 20 Tactical). Anyway, I ordered and received the FL reloading die set and tried to see if I could form a couple of pieces of brass for fireforming when I get my gun in February. Long story short, I lubed the case and ran it through the die and got a small dent around the shoulder area. Will this shoulder "blow out" and conform to the chamber when I shoot (fireform) them or will the cartridge remain dented. I should have bought some form dies I guess, but going from 223 to 204 did not seem like such a big "stretch."
Question 2. What is the best way to fireform? Shoot reduced loads? Any help will be appreciated.

26 November 2003, 23:25

<Rusty>

Alan,

On my 300 Apex I used a reduced load to fireform my resized 338 Win. brass. I usually hunt with 150 Nosler and 66 grains of IMR 4350. To fireform I drop the load to 60 grains. That gives me great results at about 2900 FPS.
I don't have to trim until after I fireform.

As for the dented shoulders they will form. I too get those if I don't wipe off the excess lube off of my 450/400 3 inch. I actually try not to put any lube on the area between the shoulder and the neck.

Rusty
We band of brothers!

Hope this helps.

27 November 2003, 01:59

<reload>

The dent on the case was probably to much lub, try imperial sizing wax it works great. A good way to fire form is to use a heavy bullet with a mild load and run the bullet into the lands so it bottoms out the case against the bolt face so it fits you chamber better. Good Luck

27 November 2003, 02:37

stevozrex

You can also fireform with inert filler (Cream of wheat)
1) Fill your case full of W-W231
2) Empty it into your scale and weigh it.
3) take 10% of this weight(This is your starting
load)
4)Prime a case with a PISTOL primer..
5) Add the 10% pwder charge
6)Shove a 1/4 square of asswipe on top of said powder charge
7)Fill case with Cream o Wheat
8)Take a little bullet lube and seal case(you just need enough to keep the stuff from running out.
9) Adjust powder until forming is complete in one shot.
Remember always to fire in a safe direction and clean the gunk out of your bbl every little bit.
This is out of a book on wildcatting and of a web sight I found both metods were very similar.
Search (MIKE J's 6mm Ackley Improved Reloading page)

You wont be sending bullets down your bore for nothing and will save wear and tear on you neew toy.
Hope this helps

27 November 2003, 03:55

Hot Core

quote:
Originally posted by AlanC:
...Gez, I am forming brass and I don't even have the gun yet (sent my .223 XP-100 to Pacnor to be rebarreled to 20 Tactical). ...

Hey AlanC, First off, I'm not familiar with a 20Tac. If it is simply a 223Rem necked down to hold 20cal bullets, then I can help you get to where you really need to be. If not, skip on past this post, cause it might not apply.

Stop running cases through your Die. Until you get the new barrel mounted in the receiver, you will not know if you are "creating" excess Head-Space by your current Full Length Resizing.

1. Once you get the barrel on the receiver, pre-adjust the Full Length Die so the bottom of has a gap equivalent to the thickness of a "nickle" above the Shellholder when the ram is all the way up.

2. Lightly lube a new case without getting any lube on the Caseneck or Case Shoulder and squash it.(I agree this is what caused the Dents.)

3. Wipe all the Lube off the Case and stick it in the Chamber. Slowly try to close the barrel into the receiver.

If it closes, back the Full Length Die out a bit more, get another new Case and repeat the above.

If it doesn't close, screw the Full Length Die in 1/8th turn and repeat the above - on the same Case - until the Barrel closes.

4. Now you want to fine tune it. You do that by backing the Full Length Die out 1/16th turn, taking another new Case which you lube and squash. Then try it in the Chamber. For a perfect fit, the Barrel needs to "Snap Closed" on the empty case.

Basically a bit more quick effort than required to slowly close it. You want to "Snap" it closed so the bifurcated underlug fully engages the recess. (On the Contender I had, if it doesn't fully engage, the internal mechanism would not allow it to fire.)

This ensures "Zero Headspace" and you can now Fire Form using "Starting Loads" for your 20Tac without really having to go to a lot of trouble.

Once you do Fire Form them, you may need to re-adjust the Full Length Die a bit more. Just remember to check and "feel" how well it closes on a "re-sized fire formed case" when you begin getting them ready to reload.

Good luck to you.