Loading 375 ruger with the canalure above the cartridge rim

19 June 2008, 01:08

Giday
I'm curious if anyone else is loading with the canalure above the rim of the cartridge.
I custom fit a blank (no primer or powder) in my African and after touching the rifling and cranking down my seater die one more turn I found that the canalure is sitting approx .091 of an inch out of the case with a COL of 3.373
I loaded a brand new case with hornady 270 grain spires.
I used the suggested method for a custom fit in the speer manual that I am using.
I did notice that on Gunblast.com Jeff loaded some rounds the same way see pic.
Does doing this improve accuracy that much, and if so crimping goes out the window.
BTW is anyone crimping this round.

Cheers.

19 June 2008, 02:50

Shinzo

Gday as well.Loading a bullet without crimping in the cannelure is just like loading a bullet without a cannelure & it will all come down to whether or not you have sufficient neck tension to anchor the bullets in the rounds in your mag from moving under recoil. Try a few to see if this is OK, alternatively, get a Lee Factory Crimp Die for this calibre, even if they don't list one they will make one for only about $25 plus post, you may have to send a loaded dummy round to them, ie no powder or primer. There are a lot of guys on the forum that like these Lee FCDs I certainly do, they will put a crimp into a round even without a cannelure.
Steve

19 June 2008, 06:41

Stonecreek

quote:
Loading a bullet without crimping in the cannelure is just like loading a bullet without a cannelure

Yes, except that an uncannelured bullet has not suffered the jacket deformation that the canneluring process creates (how many match bullets do you find that use a cannelure?)

Crimping an uncannelured bullet is asking for trouble, as it particularly deforms the bullet jacket. This is not only potentially detrimental to accuracy, but it also weakens the jacket and may alter the terminal performance of the bullet.

On the other hand, uniformly crimping a cannelured bullet can be a challenge because the cannelure's placement in relationship to the length and shape of the ogive is rarely consistent. This means you'll hit high, low, and in between with the mouth of the case -- even if you've attempted to trim your cases to dead-uniform length.

I load three dozen calibers up through .375 H & H. Except for .223s used in a rough-feeding AR-15 clone, I never crimp and never will. Even for the .223, I DO NOT crimp in the same operation as seating with a conventional seating die. Doing so simultaneously squeezes the bullet jacket while forcing the bullet deeper in the case -- a combinaton guaranteed to create deformation, metal shaving, and a scratched bullet surface. If you must crimp, do it in a separate operation with a readjusted seating die or with a dedicated crimping die.

19 June 2008, 19:37

kreyten

Good Morning,

I am also learning the ropes of loading the 375 ruger...I have noticed that the round is very prone to shoulder deformation and non-chambering after crimping...do a search on this forum for previous discussions.

Several have reported good results with the Lee crimper...

I have stopped crimping altogether..have found that the hornady brass has enough neck tension to hold the bullet..

Good luck. You should have no problems seating to above the cannelure with no crimp.

Cheers

20 June 2008, 09:06

Shinzo

quote:
Originally posted by Stonecreek:
quote:
Loading a bullet without crimping in the cannelure is just like loading a bullet without a cannelure

Yes, except that an uncannelured bullet has not suffered the jacket deformation that the canneluring process creates (how many match bullets do you find that use a cannelure?)

Crimping an uncannelured bullet is asking for trouble, as it particularly deforms the bullet jacket. This is not only potentially detrimental to accuracy, but it also weakens the jacket and may alter the terminal performance of the bullet.

On the other hand, uniformly crimping a cannelured bullet can be a challenge because the cannelure's placement in relationship to the length and shape of the ogive is rarely consistent. This means you'll hit high, low, and in between with the mouth of the case -- even if you've attempted to trim your cases to dead-uniform length.

I load three dozen calibers up through .375 H & H. Except for .223s used in a rough-feeding AR-15 clone, I never crimp and never will. Even for the .223, I DO NOT crimp in the same operation as seating with a conventional seating die. Doing so simultaneously squeezes the bullet jacket while forcing the bullet deeper in the case -- a combinaton guaranteed to create deformation, metal shaving, and a scratched bullet surface. If you must crimp, do it in a separate operation with a readjusted seating die or with a dedicated crimping die.

Not sure that we're really comparing apples with apples here. In a target situation I completely agree with Stonecreeks comments, however, in a hunting situation in a relatively heavily recoiling round I for one support the notion of crimping. Target shooting is normally single feeding of rounds, hunting sees rounds sit in a mag & having to absorb the recoil of previous rounds. Being a belt & braces type, I can't see the point of taking the chance that the time you find out that your neck tension wasn't enough may be exactly the wrong time, especially if we're talking DG in Africa or Alaska or wherever. Going back to Colorado Kids initial post, if seating the bullet out beyond the cannelure doesn't compromise feeding at all it may well assist in accuracy, but from my point of view, keep in mind that this is a hunting load you're talking about. A ragged single hole in the target from 3 at 100 is all very nice but 3 on a pie plate offhand at a 100 is probably more useful. I've never heard of anyone criticising the Lee FCD for damaging accuracy in the hunting sense, I've no doubt target shooters don't use it & I can understand that. For what its worth, I don't crimp my 257 Robts, 7x64 or 303. I do crimp my 308 Norma & 338-06 & will crimp my 375 H&H & 416 Taylor when I get them done.
Steve.

20 June 2008, 09:58

vapodog

IMO crimping the .375 Ruger isn't at all necessary.....I have not loaded that round yet but have loaded a good many .375 H&H and .404 Jeff and the .416 Ruger without crimping and never suffered any consequences at all.

In a heavy revolver one must crimp to keep the bullet from migrating foreward and locking the cylinder against the frame...In a tubular action one must crimp to keep the forces of the tube spring from pushing the bullet back into the case and I suspect that in a double rifle one could also move the uncrimped bullet foreward by firing the first barrel repeatedly....one could eventually even pulle the bullet completely resulting in a hang fire.

I've crimped bullets for a bolt rifle but often don't and have never suffewred any bad consequences for it.

Do as you see fit!