Rookie Question About Case Trimming

23 August 2002, 06:22

<Crusader>

Hi Guys: I am finally taking the reloading plunge, having bought an RCBS Rockchucker kit. I am brand new to all of this, but am really fired up about exploring this new hobby.

I started getting it all set up the other night, and things went pretty smoothly. However, there appeared to be no instructions/info. pertaining to the manual case trimmer pro kit that came with it. Knowing that "there are no dumb questions," can you tell me how to set it up and properly use it? Also, do I need to use it on all previously-used cases, all the time?

Thanks for your help!

23 August 2002, 07:00

Dutch

Give RCBS a call, you'll have instructions in the mail the same day.

No, you don't need to trim every time. See the manual included in the kit. HTH, Dutch.

23 August 2002, 08:33

DB Bill

Every case has a "trim-to" length and a maximum allowable length (assuming standard chambers) and it is very important you don't let any of your cases get longer than the max allowable length.

For good quality, consistent ammunition you should keep your cases the same length and this means you will need to measure them after each time you resize them...so...you will need a good set of caliphers. Don't scrimp on this, get a good set. You know, of course, you will need to de-burr and champfer after each trimming.

Let me also suggest you get a Sinclair International catalog and then buy their handbook on Precision Reloading....it may tell you more than you want to know and talks about things the average reloader doesn't need to do but it is good information.

[ 08-22-2002, 23:35: Message edited by: DB Bill ]

23 August 2002, 08:44

Bigdaddytacp

quote:
Originally posted by Crusader:
Hi Guys: I am finally taking the reloading plunge, having bought an RCBS Rockchucker kit. I am brand new to all of this, but am really fired up about exploring this new hobby.

I started getting it all set up the other night, and things went pretty smoothly. However, there appeared to be no instructions/info. pertaining to the manual case trimmer pro kit that came with it. Knowing that "there are no dumb questions," can you tell me how to set it up and properly use it? Also, do I need to use it on all previously-used cases, all the time?

Thanks for your help!

As the other post suggest call RCBS....then after study you might want to put your trimmer on a board and clamp to your bench or hold in your lap.....get the good calipers and make sure the shell plate is all the way down in the two holder studs....and make sure the case rims/extractor grooves aren't bent or dirty....either find a case that is already at the trim length OR trim one in a try and measure method and when your case is at "book" trim length or measured length for YOUR chamber then lock the adjustment and check that it hasn't moved and then trim all you cases...after sizing.......use a little case lube in the neck every few cases to keep from case neck galling......it helps to have the neck brushed out ....a bolt and nut can be put on the trimmer shaft instead of the crank handle and use a slow electric drill or a heavy torque elect. screwdriver...saves fingers and hand on large batchs......keep brass seperated by batchs and number of firings....set calipers at trim length plus .010 and when any one of the cases reach the longer length then trim all of that batch back to the "book trim length" be sure to use a good inside and outside deburrer on the trimmed cases......remember the case length will grow with reloadings and when sized so measure sized cases....good luck and good shooting!

23 August 2002, 10:57

<goneballistic>

Good news is, now the trim pro II is standard, a big improvement over the old collet system. You should have some sort of a pamphlet with a short how to on your trimmer included in the kit, if not call RCBS, they will send you one.

As far as adjusting case trim length, I have issues with the RCBS trimmer. Unless they changed it completely, you have a course adjust ring that you slide on the trimmer shaft and lock down with a set screw. Then, there is a fine adjust ring that turns on fine threads, which is connected to the course adjust ring. Another set screw is involved. The problem starts when you trim different calibers. The set screws are brass, they wallow out real fast when you use them a lot. If you only trim one caliber, this is not a problem.
I use something called an RCBS trim gauge. This is an adjustable insert that clips onto the trimmer shaft. You leave the adjust rings zeroed out, the trim gauge is then set to give proper trim length for a given caliber. After the correct trim gauge is adjusted, just drop it in and start trimming. Double check the trim length now and then, of course.
Now, for the bad news. I don't think RCBS makes the trim gauge any more. If you are lucky enough to have one of those little gun shops nearby with all kinds of different odds and ends in stock, they might just have a few. Be aware, there are 6 or so of these trim gauges that cover calibers from .223 on up to .460 WBY, so if you find a few be sure that they are the correct size. They should cost $6 or $7, maybe less.

[ 08-24-2002, 00:37: Message edited by: goneballistic ]

23 August 2002, 11:07

<goneballistic>

Go to google and do a search on RCBS trim gauge. They still seem to be available. If you are doing more than 1 caliber I strongly recomend them.

26 August 2002, 09:50

<Dutchgus>

I also started with the trick that Bigdaddytacp describes: putting a bolt in the trimmer shaft that fits in the electric drill. It worked a lot easier than the crank handle, but wasn't perfect (not always 100% concentric and bolts breaking up after a while).
I then had a friend/mechanic who can use a lathe, turne down the last 1/2 inch of the shaft so far that its thin enough to fit my electric drill. Now it works perfect. I wonder why the guys at RCBS didn't 'invent' this simple solution. Since then I never touched the crank handle anymore.

26 August 2002, 09:16

HockeyPuck

RCBS makes a replacement hex-head screw that replaces the handle and handle screw. As part of the "kit" you get a "bald-headed" allen wrench that is easily chucked into your drill. The blad-head allows you some latitude of movement of your drill. The allen head screws are readily available at your nearest hardware store and are metric, if memory serves me correctly. A few bucks will get you a lifetime supply.
I've always found that adjusting the coarse and fine adjustments and using calipers continually as I make the adjustment cuts to be time consuming. So, after I do it the first time and have a case cut to exactly the right length, I mark it as the Trim Master for that caliber and drop it in a drawer that's handy. The next time I decide to trim that particular caliber, I loosen the adjustment set screws, drop in my Trim Master, push the cutter head and pilot into contact with the case mouth of the Trim Master and lock down the set screws. Naturally, I make a first run test cut before trimming on a large scale. Works for me.
'puck